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contact www.OpenSubtitles.org today

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Welcome to the thirteenth annual Reel Rock Film Tour.

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Reel Rock is presented by:

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The North Face.

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Since 1966, we’ve seen walls not as obstacles but as opportunities.

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A chance to explore what we believe to be possible.

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A vertical proving ground for grit, perseverance, and determination.

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Walls can be mirrors that reflect the best versions of ourselves.

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Walls don’t divide us, they bring us together.

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Walls are meant for climbing.

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I'm starting to get sort of,

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Stoked?

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sort of inspired.

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This year, Reel Rock brings you 4 new films from around the globe

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featuring:

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An expedition to the remote, frozen towers of Antarctica.

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These are huge mountains.

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This is insane!

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Rock!

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A hot lap through the world of speed climbing,

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our next Olympic sport.

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You're just racing to see who can get to the top the fastest.

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A pilgrimage to the desert of Jordan, a Middle Eastern, big-wall climbing Mecca.

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Eli kept talking about this place called Wadi Rum and this rock climb he'd been working on.

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Rock!

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And a wild ride to the limits of climbing

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with Adam Ondra.

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My goal is to flash 5.15, first try or nothing.

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Reel Rock 13 is sponsored by:

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Black Diamond --

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making the best mountain equipment for over fifty years

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to help Adam Ondra push standards

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and Claire Buhrfeind chase an Olympic dream.

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Live. Climb. Repeat.

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Black Diamond.

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Yeti --

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making coolers and accessories that are rugged,

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dependable,

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and expedition tested.

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Yeti. Built for the wild.

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Reel Rock 13 is also supported by:

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Climbing Magazine -- now offering instruction through online classes.

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The Access Fund -- protecting America’s climbing.

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And the American Alpine Club -- together we’re stronger.

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Now that we’re warmed up,

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tie in

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for Reel Rock 13.

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Adam Ondra is the best climber in the world, by far.

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He's a lot better than everybody else.

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In pretty much all realms of climbing.

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Sport climbing,

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bouldering,

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big wall climbing,

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competition climbing.

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Adam Ondra,

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they're chanting his name.

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I mean, he set out to be the best climber in every aspect

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and he’s done it.

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He's the greatest climber of all time.

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There's a mystery around Adam.

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Who is this guy? What makes him tick?

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We're all kind of wondering why is Adam so good?

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We know very little about his process.

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Does he have a vision?

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How can he take the sport to the next level?

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I think I was born with this desire

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to set my own goals and going for them.

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Since the age of seven I became really obsessed with climbing

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and I was ambitious.

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Somehow I knew that in the end I would be a professional climber

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and just be good at it.

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When I went to the competitions as a small kid

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I just wanted to climb every single route there was.

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Even if I won, but didn’t climb to the top of the route,

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I would get really frustrated.

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Climbing to the top of the route was even more important

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than the victory itself.

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It is just so hard to control the emotion.

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When I got frustrated, I cried,

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and my parents told me "Well, it might not look that good if you're crying,

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might look a little better if you swear."

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I think it was good advice.

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But I must say that I might have been using

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even those really bad words.

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Adam definitely does seem like he could've been

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bred for this purpose in some kind of lab.

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He seems like a specimen who's been created to send.

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I wouldn't be shocked if he had come out of some kind of

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Eastern European, post-Soviet, apocalyptic, dungeon training cellar thing.

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Ready go! Up!

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He's been freaking climbing at an elite level since he was like six years old.

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I was interested in Adam Ondra since he was a kid.

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You'd always hear about this kid from the Czech Republic

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doing something that's really hard

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in places I've never heard of.

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There were articles coming out about this wonder-kid

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doing really hard routes first try.

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I was right around the same age as him

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and I was like "Wow, what, what's going on in Europe?"

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When I was a little kid I really got interested in the history of climbing.

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I would know all the famous climbers

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and hardest routes such as Action Directe,

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the first 9a in the world.

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I went to see Action Directe when I was seven years old

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and I thought like "Wow, I want to climb that one day."

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I actually ended up sending it seven years later.

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He really got a lot of attention on the global climbing scene

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when became the youngest person to climb a 5.14d.

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Thirteen years old, scrawny, scraggly kid with long hair.

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He had like a nerdy Harry Potter vibe going.

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Twiggy and gangly and all neck like a giraffe.

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I shouldn't make fun because every kid a little awkward

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but Adam Ondra was particularly awkward as a kid.

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I'm Adam Ondra and I am 15 years ago.

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He doesn't look like a professional athlete.

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But he just has such an intensity for climbing.

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The burning passion, and the drive, and the fire.

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Where you're just like, "Respect."

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He did La Rambla in like five tries.

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That was the hardest grade at the time.

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Do you want to be the best in the world?

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But after that?

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You see the headlines, Adam's breaking records,

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climbing harder and harder routes.

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He's done the most 5.14s, he's done the most 5.15s.

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He's climbed basically all the hardest boulder problems in the world.

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Including these horrendously disgusting looking traverses

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at his home crags in the Czech Republic.

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I can't believe he's climbing V16 in some rotten hole.

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He's doing it because he just needs a challenge.

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For sure it's not the sickest line you can find,

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but every single climb teaches you something.

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He's a student of movement.

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He's taking a very dedicated, methodical approach

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to learn from the best climbers in the world.

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Everything about how the human body works on rock.

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One of the major moments in Ondra's career was

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competing with Chris Sharma

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for the first ascent of La Dura Dura,

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which would be the hardest route in the world.

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They both put in a really good fight

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and ultimately Ondra, Ondra won.

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The torch really passed from Chris Sharma is the best climber in the world

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to now it's Adam Ondra.

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The next thing he did was spend an entire year training.

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He took a step back from real rock

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and just disappeared into this dingy little bouldering gym.

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I think a lot of people were disappointed that

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he didn't go find the next sick route to inspire all of us.

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But it was part of this premeditated plan that he has to

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improve himself and dominate all aspects of the sport.

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We started to see videos of how hard Adam was training

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and it seemed like he loved the training just as much as he did the climbing.

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And it paid off in the world championships.

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Ondra.

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No athlete in the history of climbing

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has won a bouldering and lead world championship

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in the same year.

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Go on Ondra, and what an awesome performance.

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Ondra, one more move away!

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One hand on it and he knows he's there!

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Ondra is the world lead champion

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and the world bouldering champion.

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Something I don't think will ever be done again.

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I mean, he just does everything at the highest level in the world.

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He doesn't compete very often, but when he does he basically wins.

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He doesn't big-wall very often, but when he does

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he does the Dawn Wall.

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A year after Tommy and Kevin climb the Dawn Wall,

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Adam showed up first time ever in Yosemite

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having never really jumared or even placed gear.

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Nobody knew how that was going to play out.

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People were like "Oh, I don't think he'll climb the Dawn Wall,"

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it's like, "Of course he's going to fucking climb the Dawn Wall, it's only 14d."

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It's not even that hard for him.

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A 14d sport climb is usually easy for me

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but up on the Dawn Wall I was humbled.

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Pretty tough day.

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It was more exciting than I expected.

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He managed to basically crush it.

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It's half past twelve and only four pitches left.

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The thing is it is really impressive that he came and climbed the Dawn Wall

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but I think he has set such a high bar for himself

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that it's really hard to impress people now.

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You know, I mean poor Adam.

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After the Dawn Wall I chose this project in Flatanger in Norway.

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It's a huge cave, perfect rock,

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with just enough features to make it climbable.

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It's 60 degrees overhanging and the route is maybe 45 meters long.

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I was sure that this could be the new level of difficulty.

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The climbing is very complex.

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It's like multiple boulder problems stacked on top of each other

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and you really have to be creative to find the easiest way.

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I'd been working on a story about Adam

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and he had this project in Norway that was going to be a 5.15d

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and I had to go see that.

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I walked up to the crag and was like "That's it?"

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It's not a king line.

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You can't even really tell where it goes.

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It just kind of ends in the middle of the wall.

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You're like "This is what's so inspiring to you?"

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But his answer to that question was so perfect.

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For Adam, it's not about the line it's about the beauty of the moves.

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It might not be that beautiful to look at

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but it is just really interesting

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because of how weird and severe the climbing is --

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especially the crux.

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You look at this crack and it's the shallowest,

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slipperiest, most awful thing you've ever seen.

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So horrible that his hands don't work on it.

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I was trying desperately to find the beta.

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After a few weeks I realized the easiest way is feet first.

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I found that I could turn around and thrust my foot and jam it inside a crack.

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It's bizarre climbing.

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Kicking his legs up above his head,

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doing these incredible ab sit-ups

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to contort his body

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and get his hands above his feet.

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When I was there Ondra got really sick.

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He didn't want to climb on the route

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but he was still approaching the mental preparation with the same level of

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intensity that you see when he's climbing.

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It was a very surreal scene.

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Very good, very good. Foot up, foot up. Come on.

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Watching the world's best climber lie on a shag carpet pantomiming beta

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with his physiotherapist mimicking the shape of holds with his hand.

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Come on, come in, come in.

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Drop-knee.

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I mean, it just looks nuts.

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Yes! Come on Adam, go, go!

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I had never seen anything like that.

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So I posted an Instagram story.

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Come on Adam, go, go!

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And professional climbers around the world were like

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"What is he doing? What is the secret to this?"

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I was like "What? This is not like any climbing I have ever done."

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What a weirdo.

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So I'm the right pocket. I'm a bit slopey.

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Turn around, turn around, turn around, turn around.

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Up, up, up, up, up.

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And then down.

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Adam takes this very cerebral approach

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to everything from the physical to the mental.

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In this position I have the toe-hook.

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He brought his physiotherapist, Klaus, to analyze his biomechanics

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and help with his training.

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There was an old barn there

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and if he wasn't on his project

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he was always, always training.

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His friend bought a bunch of wood in the Czech Republic,

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drove it up to Norway, and constructed this amazing wall.

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Now he has a place for his warm up.

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He was doing everything possible

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to take climbing to the next level.

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Climbing through the bottom,

256
00:17:40,967 --> 00:17:42,470
I don't really remember much.

257
00:17:44,395 --> 00:17:47,020
I was just in such a perfect flow.

258
00:19:21,880 --> 00:19:24,950
In the end of the route I was pretty nervous

259
00:19:24,950 --> 00:19:26,910
because I knew I could do it.

260
00:19:27,150 --> 00:19:30,500
There was so much pressure from deep in myself.

261
00:19:30,500 --> 00:19:33,750
I definitely didn't want to let it go.

262
00:20:02,030 --> 00:20:03,460
Adam did the route

263
00:20:04,210 --> 00:20:05,960
and he named it Silence

264
00:20:06,500 --> 00:20:08,700
Which is pretty freaking ironic.

265
00:20:34,150 --> 00:20:37,900
Reaching the anchor, it was just super intense.

266
00:20:44,870 --> 00:20:48,740
It was too intense to even scream out of joy.

267
00:20:52,330 --> 00:20:54,420
I just sat still

268
00:20:54,560 --> 00:20:56,690
and enjoyed the moment.

269
00:21:00,110 --> 00:21:01,130
It happened!

270
00:21:03,130 --> 00:21:04,680
I can't believe it.

271
00:21:04,680 --> 00:21:09,180
I've never had such a reaction after sending the route, I wanted to cry.

272
00:21:14,020 --> 00:21:15,560
Oh, man!

273
00:21:17,270 --> 00:21:20,070
He does Silence -- the world's first 15d.

274
00:21:20,980 --> 00:21:25,240
It's crazy just saying that, 15d.

275
00:21:28,230 --> 00:21:33,040
After climbing Silence, I went back home and took some time to train

276
00:21:33,040 --> 00:21:35,670
and figure out what my next goal would be.

277
00:21:38,460 --> 00:21:41,050
I think the challenge for Adam is that

278
00:21:41,213 --> 00:21:42,822
he's done everything.

279
00:21:43,294 --> 00:21:45,260
He's already established two new grades.

280
00:21:45,446 --> 00:21:48,930
He's won world championships, he's climbed the Dawn Wall,

281
00:21:49,976 --> 00:21:52,560
we all kind of wonder, "What do you do next?"

282
00:22:36,997 --> 00:22:39,472
People keep telling me that after Silence

283
00:22:39,506 --> 00:22:41,932
there will be nothing else for me to climb

284
00:22:42,670 --> 00:22:43,670
and that's bullshit.

285
00:22:45,365 --> 00:22:49,110
I can always be a little bit stronger, a little bit better climber.

286
00:23:00,130 --> 00:23:03,550
Over the last years I have been working on the raw power.

287
00:23:04,888 --> 00:23:06,720
I've definitely gotten much stronger

288
00:23:09,769 --> 00:23:12,720
but I think the stronger you are

289
00:23:12,870 --> 00:23:15,970
your technique can actually go down.

290
00:23:17,094 --> 00:23:19,640
Because then if you just feel the power you use it

291
00:23:19,935 --> 00:23:22,263
and you forget the perfect movement.

292
00:23:27,740 --> 00:23:32,030
That's why I've always focused on climbing better technically.

293
00:23:35,495 --> 00:23:38,999
I have to be aligned and then I can move the leg.

294
00:23:40,030 --> 00:23:43,040
If I'm like this then it will be different.

295
00:23:43,340 --> 00:23:45,880
I met Dr. Čumpelík last year.

296
00:23:46,880 --> 00:23:52,510
He made me realize that I can actually climb more efficiently.

297
00:23:54,100 --> 00:23:59,020
I just have to learn the perfect movement patterns.

298
00:23:59,020 --> 00:24:00,640
If the cat

299
00:24:01,785 --> 00:24:04,610
is going to catch some animal

300
00:24:05,215 --> 00:24:08,030
he has to go very slowly.

301
00:24:12,406 --> 00:24:14,588
Dr. Čumpelík came with this

302
00:24:14,618 --> 00:24:18,830
theory that human beings are still four legged

303
00:24:18,830 --> 00:24:22,210
even though at a certain point during the evolution

304
00:24:22,210 --> 00:24:24,170
we stood up on two legs.

305
00:24:24,980 --> 00:24:30,760
But if we really want that our movements are efficient

306
00:24:30,760 --> 00:24:36,010
we have to consider that the hands and legs are still connected.

307
00:24:36,300 --> 00:24:37,150
Perfect.

308
00:24:37,310 --> 00:24:39,890
Why should we focus more on the pinkies?

309
00:24:39,890 --> 00:24:43,390
If you press it here, where is this going?

310
00:24:44,200 --> 00:24:45,810
Shoulder is going frontwards,

311
00:24:45,810 --> 00:24:49,030
with the pinky it's in the perfect position

312
00:24:49,030 --> 00:24:50,650
and it's going upwards.

313
00:24:51,240 --> 00:24:54,860
Dr. Čumpelík showed me there's more things

314
00:24:54,870 --> 00:24:58,540
I can still learn and that's exciting.

315
00:25:01,870 --> 00:25:04,170
It gives me so much satisfaction

316
00:25:04,170 --> 00:25:08,130
to work on the perfection of my climbing.

317
00:25:09,250 --> 00:25:10,920
After you climbed Silence,

318
00:25:10,920 --> 00:25:14,220
did you set new goals right after that?

319
00:25:14,220 --> 00:25:17,890
Were you already thinking about 5.16,

320
00:25:17,890 --> 00:25:21,140
a 9c ? Is that even possible?

321
00:25:21,430 --> 00:25:22,590
I mean,

322
00:25:23,490 --> 00:25:29,400
I know that 9c  might maybe be possible one day

323
00:25:29,400 --> 00:25:32,990
but right now for the moment it's too far.

324
00:25:34,700 --> 00:25:38,950
Pushing even one grade higher, this could take years.

325
00:25:39,710 --> 00:25:44,540
There's just so many different ways that I could still make progress.

326
00:25:45,290 --> 00:25:49,590
One discipline that I really enjoy is called flash.

327
00:25:50,550 --> 00:25:55,550
It means climbing a route first try or nothing, that's it.

328
00:25:56,180 --> 00:26:02,600
After Silence I set a goal of making the first 9a  flash.

329
00:26:02,600 --> 00:26:04,390
That would be just perfect.

330
00:26:05,600 --> 00:26:09,060
The idea of climbing 5.15 first try is just crazy.

331
00:26:09,060 --> 00:26:11,940
I was like "No way you can flash 5.15," and then you're like,

332
00:26:11,940 --> 00:26:13,400
"Well, it is Adam Ondra."

333
00:26:14,030 --> 00:26:17,490
I was always obsessed by climbing a route first-go.

334
00:26:18,200 --> 00:26:22,370
As a small kid I just wanted to flash every single route.

335
00:26:22,532 --> 00:26:25,360
If I fell on my first try I just didn't bother

336
00:26:25,375 --> 00:26:26,830
even giving a second try.

337
00:26:26,830 --> 00:26:30,630
There's no one even close to Adam in terms of doing hard routes first go.

338
00:26:34,050 --> 00:26:35,510
Hardest flash in the world.

339
00:26:35,510 --> 00:26:39,140
I knew growing up that Adam was a master of this skill.

340
00:26:39,930 --> 00:26:43,430
He's pushed that realm more than anyone else, by far.

341
00:26:44,100 --> 00:26:49,600
I had a dream of flashing 9a  since I was 18.

342
00:26:49,610 --> 00:26:52,650
I tried for the first time in 2012

343
00:26:52,650 --> 00:26:56,440
on this super famous route Biographie by Chris Sharma.

344
00:26:56,450 --> 00:26:58,110
When I climbed Biographie

345
00:26:58,110 --> 00:27:00,110
that was the hardest thing in the world and it

346
00:27:00,120 --> 00:27:01,660
took me, like, four years to do it.

347
00:27:01,660 --> 00:27:05,620
So it was amazing that someone could even consider flashing something like that.

348
00:27:05,620 --> 00:27:08,710
I watched the footage of Chris making the first ascent.

349
00:27:10,080 --> 00:27:13,550
Just trying to memorize the moves for a flash-go.

350
00:27:15,590 --> 00:27:19,720
Typically in sport climbing you spend days, months, even years

351
00:27:19,720 --> 00:27:22,260
practicing the moves over and over

352
00:27:22,260 --> 00:27:24,680
until it becomes this choreographed dance.

353
00:27:24,680 --> 00:27:27,730
But on a flash there's no rehearsal.

354
00:27:27,730 --> 00:27:30,770
You're just going up there trying to figure it out on the fly.

355
00:27:30,770 --> 00:27:34,400
It's a totally fresh experience, you have to trust your instincts.

356
00:27:34,400 --> 00:27:36,230
You have one chance to do it perfectly.

357
00:27:36,240 --> 00:27:39,910
It's the pinnacle of what it means to climb well.

358
00:27:40,490 --> 00:27:43,070
For me trying a route flash

359
00:27:43,080 --> 00:27:45,790
is probably the most intense,

360
00:27:45,790 --> 00:27:50,210
the most mentally demanding way of climbing.

361
00:27:50,210 --> 00:27:54,340
All the decisions are made by intuition.

362
00:27:55,750 --> 00:27:58,260
Every time you’re off a millimeter

363
00:27:58,260 --> 00:28:00,720
you’re losing a little bit of energy

364
00:28:00,720 --> 00:28:02,640
and all that adds up.

365
00:28:03,680 --> 00:28:08,020
Biographie has a very hard crux on the top.

366
00:28:08,020 --> 00:28:11,270
I just arrived there just being too pumped.

367
00:28:16,530 --> 00:28:19,860
At that moment, I was not ready yet.

368
00:28:19,860 --> 00:28:24,580
A few years later I tried to flash another 9a 

369
00:28:25,280 --> 00:28:27,950
and I got agonizingly close.

370
00:28:27,950 --> 00:28:30,200
There was a tiny mistake.

371
00:28:30,210 --> 00:28:33,710
I placed my foot a little bit lower than I should have.

372
00:28:34,710 --> 00:28:39,170
So I tried it twice and I failed both times.

373
00:28:41,510 --> 00:28:47,760
But I feel like now I'm finally ready for a 9a  flash.

374
00:28:52,810 --> 00:28:56,150
Oliana is one of the hardest crags in the world.

375
00:28:56,150 --> 00:28:58,480
It's a massive, overhanging limestone wall.

376
00:28:58,480 --> 00:29:01,860
It's kind of the North Shore of hard sport climbing.

377
00:29:01,860 --> 00:29:06,990
You walk up to the cliff and there's at least five or six pro climbers trying 5.15.

378
00:29:08,080 --> 00:29:10,540
We're all there working our projects.

379
00:29:10,910 --> 00:29:11,540
Come on, Matty.

380
00:29:13,080 --> 00:29:15,750
And word got out that Adam was going to show up.

381
00:29:15,750 --> 00:29:18,960
He was preparing to flash this route called Joe Mama.

382
00:29:19,960 --> 00:29:22,090
There was definitely kind of a buzz going around and

383
00:29:22,090 --> 00:29:24,550
people were totally excited to watch the show.

384
00:29:34,980 --> 00:29:37,730
And this flag you're doing as well?

385
00:29:37,730 --> 00:29:38,400
Yeah.

386
00:29:38,400 --> 00:29:41,070
Climbing a route first try,

387
00:29:41,070 --> 00:29:44,990
it’s a game with very obvious rules.

388
00:29:45,530 --> 00:29:49,660
You can get as much information as possible from videos,

389
00:29:50,700 --> 00:29:53,660
from people that know the route very well,

390
00:29:54,500 --> 00:29:56,490
but you can't touch the holds.

391
00:29:56,480 --> 00:29:58,000
And it's four fingers or three?

392
00:29:58,000 --> 00:29:59,960
And I'll be like "Okay, you’re going to get the undercling,"

393
00:29:59,960 --> 00:30:02,130
and he's like "Whoa, whoa, whoa, whoa,

394
00:30:02,130 --> 00:30:04,050
what do you mean get the undercling, is it like this?"

395
00:30:04,050 --> 00:30:06,130
"Where's my pinky? I love my pinky."

396
00:30:06,130 --> 00:30:08,340
The under cling is like pinky, or?

397
00:30:08,350 --> 00:30:09,680
It's like pinch, it's kind of like this.

398
00:30:09,680 --> 00:30:10,680
Yeah.

399
00:30:10,680 --> 00:30:13,930
"Can I get my pinky in there? Can I put it on top of my ring finger?"

400
00:30:13,930 --> 00:30:15,690
"I really like my pinky."

401
00:30:15,690 --> 00:30:17,190
That was better but as soon as I put my pinky in there

402
00:30:17,190 --> 00:30:17,980
I love pinkies.

403
00:30:17,980 --> 00:30:19,400
Yeah. Definitely put your pinky in there.

404
00:30:19,400 --> 00:30:22,690
You know he's building the perfect sequence in his head.

405
00:30:23,650 --> 00:30:24,240
Get it.

406
00:30:25,110 --> 00:30:25,740
Press it.

407
00:30:27,360 --> 00:30:28,950
Resistance, come on. Come on.

408
00:30:30,212 --> 00:30:33,740
He has Klaus, his trainer, to help him be prepared for everything.

409
00:30:33,750 --> 00:30:36,460
The closer you are here, the more you can rotate here,

410
00:30:36,460 --> 00:30:38,170
the less power you need.

411
00:30:38,480 --> 00:30:41,600
It's so much harder to do the route first try

412
00:30:43,270 --> 00:30:44,800
but the route is still the same,

413
00:30:45,880 --> 00:30:49,720
and the only difference is that you don't have the information.

414
00:30:49,720 --> 00:30:51,890
You don't have the muscle memory.

415
00:30:53,750 --> 00:30:55,600
But you can somehow, like, cheat it.

416
00:30:55,600 --> 00:30:58,350
You can visualize beforehand.

417
00:31:00,360 --> 00:31:00,810
Okay.

418
00:31:01,590 --> 00:31:02,940
Smaller. Smaller, smaller.

419
00:31:03,872 --> 00:31:07,280
The idea is that if you do a lot of visualization

420
00:31:07,280 --> 00:31:11,160
and you climb it in your mind many times,

421
00:31:12,100 --> 00:31:14,660
then, if you actually try it,

422
00:31:14,660 --> 00:31:18,790
it feels that you had already done it many times before.

423
00:31:20,080 --> 00:31:26,130
I even visualize the emotions that I'll be having while climbing the route.

424
00:31:27,090 --> 00:31:31,140
Because in order to try hard, there must be those emotions

425
00:31:33,510 --> 00:31:39,600
and you want to feel as similar to the real climbing as possible.

426
00:31:42,730 --> 00:31:46,940
You know, I had heard about this visualization that Adam was doing

427
00:31:46,940 --> 00:31:52,070
but when I saw it for the first time it's pretty intense.

428
00:31:54,700 --> 00:31:58,660
Come on. Yes. Come on, get it.

429
00:31:58,660 --> 00:32:00,160
Come on.

430
00:32:01,170 --> 00:32:04,420
Come on, Adam. Come on, get it, get it!

431
00:32:04,420 --> 00:32:06,130
Keep going, keep going, keep going.

432
00:32:06,130 --> 00:32:07,240
Go!

433
00:32:08,070 --> 00:32:08,640
Yes.

434
00:32:10,140 --> 00:32:13,020
Nice work, come on stay there. Stay there.

435
00:32:14,930 --> 00:32:15,560
Got you.

436
00:32:16,970 --> 00:32:20,270
Got you, got you. Come on, fight.

437
00:32:21,230 --> 00:32:22,310
Come on.

438
00:32:24,060 --> 00:32:25,360
Come.

439
00:32:26,280 --> 00:32:28,570
Stay up there. Come on.

440
00:32:30,200 --> 00:32:32,990
Keep going, keep going, keep going. Come on.

441
00:32:34,149 --> 00:32:35,425
Got you, got you, got you, got you.

442
00:32:35,486 --> 00:32:39,633
Watching him put so much passion into the visualization,

443
00:32:39,796 --> 00:32:41,265
it was kind of awkward.

444
00:32:42,937 --> 00:32:45,450
I felt like I should have stepped out of the room.

445
00:32:46,090 --> 00:32:46,960
Come on.

446
00:32:48,960 --> 00:32:50,090
Come on.

447
00:32:53,390 --> 00:32:56,140
But he doesn't care about how it looks.

448
00:32:56,140 --> 00:32:58,970
He doesn't care about what people might think.

449
00:32:59,860 --> 00:33:02,640
He's transported himself onto the route.

450
00:33:07,690 --> 00:33:09,360
But the top out is good?

451
00:33:09,360 --> 00:33:10,240
Yes.

452
00:33:20,160 --> 00:33:22,250
It's nice today.

453
00:33:22,250 --> 00:33:23,660
Think so.

454
00:33:23,670 --> 00:33:24,120
Yeah.

455
00:33:27,630 --> 00:33:28,880
Yeah, hello.

456
00:33:29,710 --> 00:33:30,920
Hello.

457
00:33:33,340 --> 00:33:34,430
Do you know what he's trying?

458
00:33:34,430 --> 00:33:37,970
He's going to try to flash the 9a  Joe Mama.

459
00:33:37,970 --> 00:33:39,010
It's going to be pretty sweet.

460
00:33:39,010 --> 00:33:41,930
This is like watching the superbowl or something.

461
00:33:41,930 --> 00:33:44,810
It's like if somebody was going to go up to a golf course they've never been at

462
00:33:44,810 --> 00:33:45,900
and try to shoot a hole in one.

463
00:33:46,150 --> 00:33:47,270
On every hole.

464
00:33:47,270 --> 00:33:48,690
And everybody was watching.

465
00:33:48,690 --> 00:33:49,570
Yeah.

466
00:33:51,570 --> 00:33:55,700
In Oliana, once the sun goes behind the cliff and it gets shaded,

467
00:33:55,700 --> 00:33:57,620
most days a breeze comes up.

468
00:33:57,620 --> 00:34:00,830
It keeps your skin dry and allows you to grip the rock.

469
00:34:00,830 --> 00:34:05,250
At that level, 5.15, that could make or break the send.

470
00:34:05,250 --> 00:34:07,130
Adam was waiting for that breeze.

471
00:34:18,010 --> 00:34:22,020
At a certain point, I could see that he was hesitating.

472
00:34:25,480 --> 00:34:27,150
He started doubting the conditions.

473
00:34:45,140 --> 00:34:47,178
It looks like your chance right now.

474
00:34:47,339 --> 00:34:47,942
Yeah?

475
00:35:10,327 --> 00:35:12,005
It's a hard decision.

476
00:35:12,574 --> 00:35:16,900
I'm kind of really excited to try but it's probably not worth it.

477
00:35:17,910 --> 00:35:23,830
I mean, flash is just one try a life and I don't think this is the day.

478
00:35:26,540 --> 00:35:28,870
The wind didn't come, it was a little too humid,

479
00:35:28,870 --> 00:35:31,040
and he just decided not to try it.

480
00:35:33,619 --> 00:35:35,460
We had been struggling with bad weather.

481
00:35:35,460 --> 00:35:38,050
And it was clear that this season's over.

482
00:35:38,050 --> 00:35:40,180
He just said "It's not going to happen,"

483
00:35:40,180 --> 00:35:41,430
and goes home.

484
00:35:42,140 --> 00:35:45,850
I went all the way to Spain to flash Joe Mama.

485
00:35:45,850 --> 00:35:47,770
In the end I didn't even try.

486
00:35:48,270 --> 00:35:50,060
Of course I was frustrated.

487
00:35:50,980 --> 00:35:55,280
But it is better to stay patient and wait for another time.

488
00:35:56,280 --> 00:36:00,570
At the moment, there's maybe only two or three 9a 's

489
00:36:00,570 --> 00:36:04,990
in the world which are good candidates to be flashed,

490
00:36:04,990 --> 00:36:09,750
and that increases the pressure tremendously.

491
00:36:12,350 --> 00:36:13,650
If I fail on one,

492
00:36:14,670 --> 00:36:16,200
the chances are even lower.

493
00:36:22,800 --> 00:36:23,680
Morning.

494
00:36:24,810 --> 00:36:26,760
Think it's dry today?

495
00:36:26,770 --> 00:36:28,430
I bet only the jug pocket is wet.

496
00:36:28,430 --> 00:36:29,730
I think it will be okay.

497
00:36:30,430 --> 00:36:31,270
How are you today?

498
00:36:31,900 --> 00:36:32,400
Okay, good.

499
00:36:40,740 --> 00:36:43,530
The Colosseum is a new crag in Canmore.

500
00:36:44,320 --> 00:36:49,250
Just last year, actually, a local climber established the hardest line up there

501
00:36:50,160 --> 00:36:52,370
and proposed a grade of 5.15.

502
00:36:53,410 --> 00:36:55,130
Adam's travelled all this way

503
00:36:55,750 --> 00:36:57,920
for the big flash attempt.

504
00:37:01,510 --> 00:37:03,760
He was just watching me and filming me on his phone

505
00:37:03,760 --> 00:37:05,430
trying to get all the beta down.

506
00:37:08,770 --> 00:37:10,980
Adam, he studies it.

507
00:37:12,310 --> 00:37:15,940
You see the gears turning. The way he watches.

508
00:37:15,940 --> 00:37:17,230
The way he absorbs it.

509
00:37:17,230 --> 00:37:21,280
Just try to memorize every single handhold and foothold.

510
00:37:21,280 --> 00:37:22,200
You do this.

511
00:37:22,200 --> 00:37:22,450
Yeah.

512
00:37:22,450 --> 00:37:23,070
You do this.

513
00:37:23,070 --> 00:37:23,360
Yeah.

514
00:37:23,360 --> 00:37:24,160
And then you?

515
00:37:24,160 --> 00:37:24,910
Then I put it up, yeah.

516
00:37:24,910 --> 00:37:26,620
There's a lot going on inside his brain.

517
00:37:27,660 --> 00:37:28,200
Come on.

518
00:37:28,200 --> 00:37:29,580
Come on, Miles.

519
00:37:30,750 --> 00:37:32,500
Nice, come on.

520
00:37:35,000 --> 00:37:37,250
I think I've already memorized it,

521
00:37:37,600 --> 00:37:41,300
I've got two days to let it kind of

522
00:37:42,190 --> 00:37:43,720
sink in my head

523
00:37:43,720 --> 00:37:46,350
and I think I'll be all ready.

524
00:37:48,430 --> 00:37:52,270
It's a unique art, I think, to climb a route first try.

525
00:37:52,270 --> 00:37:54,810
It takes a phenomenal amount of guts.

526
00:37:54,810 --> 00:37:59,230
There's very few people in the world who have that mentality.

527
00:38:00,400 --> 00:38:03,860
I've never met such a person before, like Adam.

528
00:38:04,630 --> 00:38:09,740
It's somewhere in his mind that whatever he does

529
00:38:09,740 --> 00:38:13,830
he wants to do it one hundred percent.

530
00:38:14,750 --> 00:38:20,250
I always wish him to succeed because I know how it's important for him

531
00:38:20,250 --> 00:38:25,050
and I know that he's prepared for everything.

532
00:38:28,050 --> 00:38:30,010
A couple days later it was go-time.

533
00:38:30,720 --> 00:38:33,140
Yeah, I'm not going to lie, there was a bit of like,

534
00:38:33,140 --> 00:38:34,770
anxiety around it, you know?

535
00:38:36,060 --> 00:38:37,270
It's a stressful game.

536
00:38:38,860 --> 00:38:41,150
Watching Adam go through those motions,

537
00:38:41,150 --> 00:38:43,780
I mean, you can tell he wants it bad.

538
00:39:04,230 --> 00:39:06,510
Adam gets his shoes on and everyone just like,

539
00:39:07,864 --> 00:39:09,550
it's like "He's going!"

540
00:39:09,550 --> 00:39:10,370
and everyone one is like "Shh."

541
00:40:23,500 --> 00:40:24,460
No!

542
00:40:49,610 --> 00:40:50,780
What happened, Adam?

543
00:40:51,310 --> 00:40:52,770
Just slipped.

544
00:40:54,370 --> 00:40:55,370
Didn't work out.

545
00:41:00,250 --> 00:41:05,000
Adam, he puts pressure on himself, a lot.

546
00:41:06,500 --> 00:41:08,800
Like with this flash,

547
00:41:09,880 --> 00:41:12,840
maybe it's even too much sometimes.

548
00:41:14,300 --> 00:41:15,260
So frustrating.

549
00:41:15,920 --> 00:41:18,270
My hands felt like glass.

550
00:41:19,850 --> 00:41:21,020
I didn't stick.

551
00:41:24,480 --> 00:41:29,400
He struggles and we have discussions if he

552
00:41:29,400 --> 00:41:31,820
should have done something differently.

553
00:41:31,820 --> 00:41:34,570
Just wondering if I even have more motivation

554
00:41:34,570 --> 00:41:36,160
to just keep trying.

555
00:41:37,020 --> 00:41:40,620
But he did everything what he could for that.

556
00:41:41,450 --> 00:41:45,330
And I know that he will try again in the future.

557
00:42:03,850 --> 00:42:06,777
Go, go, go, go!

558
00:43:37,070 --> 00:43:40,240
This hold is with the pinky and it locks?

559
00:43:40,240 --> 00:43:41,280
How was the pinky?

560
00:43:42,330 --> 00:43:44,120
Not pretty.

561
00:43:44,120 --> 00:43:45,370
Okay.

562
00:43:46,040 --> 00:43:51,210
One finger pocket like this, like this, and you put pinky finger like this.

563
00:43:51,210 --> 00:43:52,340
Okay, I like that.

564
00:43:53,050 --> 00:43:56,420
After experiencing the failures so many times.

565
00:43:56,420 --> 00:44:01,390
I kind of felt this time I had to do it.

566
00:44:01,550 --> 00:44:04,640
But do you think you can put the thumb, like from the side?

567
00:44:04,640 --> 00:44:11,190
I was quite nervous but I just tried to focus on my own process.

568
00:44:13,800 --> 00:44:15,920
I visualized it so many times.

569
00:44:17,680 --> 00:44:18,830
I was patient,

570
00:44:19,870 --> 00:44:24,620
waiting for the perfect moment when I turn all this fear

571
00:44:24,620 --> 00:44:30,330
and pressure into complete flow of my mind.

572
00:47:30,680 --> 00:47:36,680
It was like 95 percent just as I visualized it.

573
00:47:36,690 --> 00:47:38,730
The holds felt just the same.

574
00:47:40,060 --> 00:47:41,320
That's a great feeling.

575
00:47:42,270 --> 00:47:44,900
Being up there for the first time, ever,

576
00:47:46,700 --> 00:47:50,950
while having the feeling you have already climbed it many times before.

577
00:48:07,420 --> 00:48:10,090
It felt like nothing could really stop me.

578
00:48:10,930 --> 00:48:13,100
I just kept going.

579
00:48:14,390 --> 00:48:16,930
And the dream was done.

580
00:49:00,850 --> 00:49:03,770
When I started climbing, my mental mode was not so good.

581
00:49:04,374 --> 00:49:06,980
I thought it was all of a sudden so humid.

582
00:49:07,790 --> 00:49:09,610
But I don't know, I started climbing

583
00:49:09,610 --> 00:49:13,610
and I clipped the first bolt and then the hard

584
00:49:13,620 --> 00:49:15,280
the hard part should start

585
00:49:16,060 --> 00:49:17,830
but it still felt so easy.

586
00:49:18,580 --> 00:49:19,700
And I kept climbing and

587
00:49:19,710 --> 00:49:20,910
it still felt so easy.

588
00:49:21,620 --> 00:49:23,670
I was feeling like an alien power!

589
00:49:23,670 --> 00:49:25,130
It was so good.

590
00:49:25,130 --> 00:49:28,300
Everything was just as I visualized, it was perfect.

591
00:50:14,016 --> 00:50:17,147
When I left Israel, we didn’t even know it existed.

592
00:50:18,648 --> 00:50:22,277
We know Wadi Rum, as legends and myth.

593
00:50:28,533 --> 00:50:31,452
My name is Eliav Nissan. I grew up in Israel.

594
00:50:31,453 --> 00:50:33,245
I live in the United States.

595
00:50:33,309 --> 00:50:39,817
When I grew up, we heard stories about a vast desert with canyons

596
00:50:39,818 --> 00:50:42,804
that you could get lost in for days.

597
00:50:44,267 --> 00:50:46,872
But we understood that we could not cross the border

598
00:50:46,879 --> 00:50:49,804
because Israel and Jordan were in a state of war.

599
00:50:51,864 --> 00:50:54,560
I came to the United States in my early twenties

600
00:50:54,574 --> 00:50:58,874
to pursue rock climbing, mountain climbing.

601
00:50:59,061 --> 00:51:01,862
Later I reconnected with Israeli climbers.

602
00:51:02,275 --> 00:51:05,706
And they were saying, "Oh, you know we can go to Jordan now,

603
00:51:05,772 --> 00:51:08,823
there's a peace agreement, there's a great climbing area."

604
00:51:09,774 --> 00:51:13,327
My friend told me, "Go find Mohammad Hussein,

605
00:51:13,328 --> 00:51:16,915
he's the number one Bedouin guide in Wadi Rum."

606
00:51:17,298 --> 00:51:19,433
I came to the village and I asked

607
00:51:19,433 --> 00:51:22,345
and there's probably twenty Mohammad Husseins

608
00:51:22,345 --> 00:51:23,505
in the village.

609
00:51:24,297 --> 00:51:27,190
The first time I met The Mohammad Hussein,

610
00:51:27,206 --> 00:51:28,086
Woo!

611
00:51:28,172 --> 00:51:29,970
I was surprised how young he was,

612
00:51:33,184 --> 00:51:35,814
by how charismatic.

613
00:51:36,184 --> 00:51:38,562
I thought wow, here's James Dean of Wadi Rum.

614
00:51:38,890 --> 00:51:39,723
Hello.

615
00:51:39,788 --> 00:51:40,547
You hear me?

616
00:51:40,652 --> 00:51:42,237
Or you need me to shout?

617
00:52:02,364 --> 00:52:03,211
Hello.

618
00:52:20,312 --> 00:52:23,148
Mohammad Hussein knows every canyon,

619
00:52:23,150 --> 00:52:24,316
every curve.

620
00:52:25,859 --> 00:52:27,944
The first time I saw Wadi Rum,

621
00:52:28,575 --> 00:52:30,029
yeah I was stunned.

622
00:52:30,030 --> 00:52:32,823
I was like, “There is a lot of rock here.”

623
00:52:32,824 --> 00:52:34,492
Wow. This is big.

624
00:52:37,195 --> 00:52:39,038
I fell in love with Wadi Rum.

625
00:52:39,039 --> 00:52:41,833
Came back, year after year

626
00:52:42,334 --> 00:52:44,878
climbing the established routes,

627
00:52:45,420 --> 00:52:48,714
and my friendship with Mohammad has

628
00:52:48,715 --> 00:52:51,176
grown for many years now.

629
00:52:52,302 --> 00:52:53,886
I always wondered

630
00:52:53,887 --> 00:52:56,306
so much rock, so accessible,

631
00:52:56,890 --> 00:52:59,559
but, there's so few climbers.

632
00:52:59,812 --> 00:53:01,369
Why aren't they coming?

633
00:53:01,895 --> 00:53:03,360
I talked to a lot of people,

634
00:53:03,378 --> 00:53:07,149
I asked him, “How come you don't come to Jordan?”

635
00:53:07,150 --> 00:53:10,528
And they say, "Um, there's not enough modern routes,

636
00:53:10,529 --> 00:53:13,614
if the locals put routes, we will come.”

637
00:53:13,615 --> 00:53:14,908
And that kind of...

638
00:53:16,368 --> 00:53:17,953
started the dream.

639
00:53:18,227 --> 00:53:18,661
Okay.

640
00:53:18,662 --> 00:53:20,120
I talked to my friend Elad,

641
00:53:20,121 --> 00:53:21,998
he climbs there, guides there.

642
00:53:22,290 --> 00:53:23,916
We wanted a route,

643
00:53:23,917 --> 00:53:27,837
that will match the highest standards of climbing.

644
00:53:27,838 --> 00:53:31,382
So we looked at the east face of Jebel Rum,

645
00:53:31,383 --> 00:53:34,177
the biggest rock formation in Wadi Rum.

646
00:53:34,667 --> 00:53:37,054
It looks so proud, so obvious.

647
00:53:37,055 --> 00:53:39,431
When we talked to Mohammad about our plan,

648
00:53:39,432 --> 00:53:40,683
he was very excited.

649
00:53:43,781 --> 00:53:44,901
And we went to work.

650
00:54:01,078 --> 00:54:01,704
Yeah it takes a little more

651
00:54:01,705 --> 00:54:04,343
strategy because the rock is not perfect.

652
00:54:04,551 --> 00:54:05,041
To say the least.

653
00:54:07,169 --> 00:54:08,253
ROCK!

654
00:54:08,999 --> 00:54:09,917
Okay.

655
00:54:24,817 --> 00:54:25,519
Eliav is a machine.

656
00:54:25,520 --> 00:54:27,479
Eliav is a suffer machine.

657
00:54:27,486 --> 00:54:28,913
He would never be discouraged.

658
00:54:28,910 --> 00:54:31,734
One day on the headwall we ran out of bolts,

659
00:54:31,735 --> 00:54:35,237
and I thought “That's fine we'll just leave it for maybe

660
00:54:35,238 --> 00:54:36,405
next season.”

661
00:54:36,406 --> 00:54:37,364
Then all of a sudden,

662
00:54:37,365 --> 00:54:39,825
Eli just rappelled down, didn't say anything,

663
00:54:39,826 --> 00:54:42,703
took a taxi, crossed the border back to Israel,

664
00:54:42,704 --> 00:54:44,538
drove all the way to Jerusalem,

665
00:54:44,539 --> 00:54:46,540
went to this hardware store.

666
00:54:46,541 --> 00:54:49,376
Same night, he took a bus back to the border,

667
00:54:49,377 --> 00:54:51,837
took a taxi back to Wadi Rum,

668
00:54:51,838 --> 00:54:53,088
walked back to the wall,

669
00:54:53,089 --> 00:54:55,549
jumared up and put these bolts.

670
00:54:55,550 --> 00:54:57,218
I was like, “Eli, what happened?”

671
00:54:57,219 --> 00:55:00,888
And he said, "We needed bolts, so I went back to Israel to get bolts,

672
00:55:00,889 --> 00:55:03,184
it's all good now, we can go and climb.”

673
00:55:03,185 --> 00:55:04,351
“Let's go and climb.”

674
00:55:04,684 --> 00:55:05,435
So we did.

675
00:55:05,939 --> 00:55:09,230
Putting up this line in a remote desert,

676
00:55:09,231 --> 00:55:13,485
yeah, that was to say the least, it was a learning experience.

677
00:55:14,736 --> 00:55:17,488
The new route is 1,800 feet,

678
00:55:17,489 --> 00:55:18,990
15 pitches.

679
00:55:19,741 --> 00:55:23,035
It turned out the third and fourth pitches down below,

680
00:55:23,036 --> 00:55:24,538
are going to be the hardest.

681
00:55:30,168 --> 00:55:33,587
The route name, it's called Sultan Ul Mujahidin

682
00:55:33,588 --> 00:55:35,715
Try to say, Sulatan Ul Mujahidin.

683
00:55:35,841 --> 00:55:37,007
Sultan Ul Mujahidin.

684
00:55:37,008 --> 00:55:40,762
Which means "The Sultan of all freedom warriors".

685
00:55:41,096 --> 00:55:45,683
To me, it means trying to free this line and if we could do it

686
00:55:45,684 --> 00:55:49,688
it would be The Sultan of all the free routes in Wadi Rum.

687
00:56:07,956 --> 00:56:08,874
Thanks.

688
00:56:09,374 --> 00:56:10,500
Bedouin tea:

689
00:56:11,126 --> 00:56:14,129
the sweetest tea in the world.

690
00:56:19,776 --> 00:56:20,730
Right. Yeah.

691
00:56:22,888 --> 00:56:25,222
So by the end of the first season,

692
00:56:25,223 --> 00:56:27,392
we didn't even make the headwall.

693
00:56:27,934 --> 00:56:33,148
And we came back year after year, making slow progress.

694
00:56:33,940 --> 00:56:35,984
I don't know if we were getting tired,

695
00:56:36,610 --> 00:56:38,694
but we fell into this pattern,

696
00:56:38,695 --> 00:56:41,780
self doubt, is it really that good,

697
00:56:41,781 --> 00:56:44,659
and we needed something to happen

698
00:56:45,243 --> 00:56:50,165
to reignite, to reinvent The Sultan.

699
00:56:59,841 --> 00:57:02,260
Just waking up here in Wadi Rum,

700
00:57:03,470 --> 00:57:05,096
Slept like the dead.

701
00:57:06,723 --> 00:57:07,766
Holy shit.

702
00:57:11,228 --> 00:57:14,605
Why can't we start our day like that everyday?

703
00:57:14,606 --> 00:57:15,773
Oh, we can!

704
00:57:15,774 --> 00:57:19,402
Madaleine is a very accomplished, very experienced climber.

705
00:57:20,028 --> 00:57:24,657
Her technique, her ability to climb hard pitch after hard pitch,

706
00:57:24,658 --> 00:57:27,494
far, far off the ground is amazing.

707
00:57:27,691 --> 00:57:30,788
Eli kept talking about this place called Wadi Rum

708
00:57:30,789 --> 00:57:34,668
and the rock climb that he'd been working on already for two years.

709
00:57:36,260 --> 00:57:38,420
So Madaleine came to Wadi Rum.

710
00:57:38,421 --> 00:57:41,675
She did the first couple pitches with ease.

711
00:57:43,593 --> 00:57:47,430
We knew that the first major obstacle would be the third pitch.

712
00:57:49,558 --> 00:57:53,644
Elad and I, we've been trying that pitch for years.

713
00:57:53,645 --> 00:57:56,105
It really was in a sheer corner.

714
00:57:56,106 --> 00:57:58,983
I tried it several times, I tried to go right,

715
00:57:58,984 --> 00:58:00,985
we were trying laybacking,

716
00:58:00,986 --> 00:58:02,278
micro crimps,

717
00:58:02,279 --> 00:58:03,572
nothing worked.

718
00:58:04,114 --> 00:58:07,534
And Madaleine came up with the idea to stem the pitch.

719
00:58:40,150 --> 00:58:40,900
Sweet.

720
00:58:40,901 --> 00:58:42,318
Good job!

721
00:58:42,319 --> 00:58:43,444
Thanks.

722
00:58:43,445 --> 00:58:46,864
Pure, pure technique. Incredible flexibility.

723
00:58:46,865 --> 00:58:49,074
It's nothing to do with pulling hard on holds.

724
00:58:49,075 --> 00:58:50,452
Sweet.

725
00:58:50,846 --> 00:58:52,745
Madaleine sent it.

726
00:58:52,746 --> 00:58:56,917
Make me look like a beginner climber.

727
00:58:57,584 --> 00:58:59,210
Yeah, she's going to show us.

728
00:58:59,211 --> 00:59:01,962
Then we felt like, “Yeah, we got something,

729
00:59:01,963 --> 00:59:04,508
this is worth all the effort.”

730
00:59:04,674 --> 00:59:06,967
It was really just the fourth pitch left.

731
00:59:06,968 --> 00:59:09,012
It's clearly the hardest pitch.

732
00:59:25,278 --> 00:59:30,241
It was clear that pitch is not going to come so easily.

733
00:59:30,242 --> 00:59:31,700
It all looked really hard,

734
00:59:31,701 --> 00:59:33,285
one section in particular,

735
00:59:33,286 --> 00:59:37,749
but I am going to stay optimistic about it.

736
00:59:53,544 --> 00:59:55,224
Every person has a unique vision

737
00:59:55,225 --> 00:59:56,810
of the world surrounding them.

738
00:59:57,894 --> 00:59:59,770
As a kid, growing up in Israel,

739
00:59:59,771 --> 01:00:03,817
there was a vision of the people on the other side of the border,

740
01:00:05,277 --> 01:00:08,654
and I think climbing and adventure

741
01:00:08,655 --> 01:00:12,199
is a great way for people to meet

742
01:00:12,200 --> 01:00:15,452
and share something that is greater:

743
01:00:15,453 --> 01:00:20,584
nature, challenge, risk, unknown.

744
01:00:21,334 --> 01:00:26,673
You really have to connect in order to do what we were doing there.

745
01:01:44,084 --> 01:01:48,003
That hospitality, that goes way back to Bible story,

746
01:01:48,004 --> 01:01:49,798
Old Testament stories,

747
01:01:50,966 --> 01:01:54,385
of Sarah accepting the messengers to her tent,

748
01:01:54,386 --> 01:01:56,178
not knowing who they were,

749
01:01:56,179 --> 01:01:58,139
it's rooted in the culture.

750
01:02:03,812 --> 01:02:06,897
After a few weeks, we'd established the route in its entirety,

751
01:02:06,898 --> 01:02:10,484
and we became quite hyper focused on pitch four,

752
01:02:10,485 --> 01:02:13,113
because that was the obvious crux.

753
01:02:15,782 --> 01:02:19,034
I'm going to try to rest for a second, and try to do that sequence

754
01:02:19,035 --> 01:02:20,452
from the start of the crux.

755
01:02:20,453 --> 01:02:23,163
On that fourth pitch it's really going to be

756
01:02:23,164 --> 01:02:24,915
that one long pull move,

757
01:02:25,747 --> 01:02:30,088
and then two significant high steps with my right foot.

758
01:02:30,630 --> 01:02:31,755
You're on the arete,

759
01:02:31,756 --> 01:02:33,090
get my right foot up

760
01:02:33,091 --> 01:02:35,342
sort of smear thing.

761
01:02:35,343 --> 01:02:37,928
The crux is to that little ledge

762
01:02:37,929 --> 01:02:40,140
and take the traverse left again.

763
01:02:41,933 --> 01:02:42,684
Yeah!

764
01:02:43,476 --> 01:02:46,103
I stand up on a small right foot,

765
01:02:46,104 --> 01:02:50,608
reach up to pointer-finger kind of lock with my left hand

766
01:02:50,609 --> 01:02:56,071
to reach to this down pulling other right pointer-finger hole.

767
01:02:56,072 --> 01:02:59,992
I stand way up to a left-hand pin scar.

768
01:02:59,989 --> 01:03:02,828
My pointer fingers are so strong from this climb.

769
01:03:02,829 --> 01:03:06,582
And then smear, push that gets me left.

770
01:03:06,583 --> 01:03:08,388
And if I get to the hole, I'm

771
01:03:08,382 --> 01:03:10,337
freaking sending the pitch.

772
01:03:14,911 --> 01:03:18,302
The whole village, basically, they were so into it.

773
01:03:18,300 --> 01:03:22,417
I was at the grocery store, and he asked me, “Did she do it?”

774
01:03:29,231 --> 01:03:32,066
Our time was pretty much over.

775
01:03:32,067 --> 01:03:35,194
I had one more day to try to send this route.

776
01:03:35,195 --> 01:03:37,489
I really wanted to send that pitch.

777
01:03:57,257 --> 01:03:57,924
Okay, Eli.

778
01:03:58,161 --> 01:03:59,038
Alright.

779
01:04:10,710 --> 01:04:11,044
Yes.

780
01:04:17,153 --> 01:04:17,654
Yes!

781
01:04:30,292 --> 01:04:32,460
You got this. Nice.

782
01:04:40,364 --> 01:04:41,198
Oh nice.

783
01:04:42,815 --> 01:04:43,899
Everything!

784
01:04:45,182 --> 01:04:46,183
Strong!

785
01:04:47,893 --> 01:04:49,644
Come on! You got this!

786
01:04:49,895 --> 01:04:50,937
You got it.

787
01:04:53,857 --> 01:04:54,941
Fuck.

788
01:05:15,003 --> 01:05:16,630
Yes. Yes.

789
01:05:23,595 --> 01:05:24,638
No!

790
01:05:27,849 --> 01:05:28,600
What?

791
01:05:30,737 --> 01:05:32,979
A battle.

792
01:05:36,175 --> 01:05:38,442
Well, I'm going down.

793
01:05:38,443 --> 01:05:40,945
Couldn't send it today.

794
01:05:40,946 --> 01:05:43,822
So close, just couldn't make my right foot stick.

795
01:05:43,823 --> 01:05:47,451
Yeah, beautiful climbing, including this pitch,

796
01:05:47,452 --> 01:05:48,536
awaits you

797
01:05:48,537 --> 01:05:51,125
if you come to Wadi Rum.

798
01:05:51,953 --> 01:05:54,406
Yeah, someone better send it in the next year

799
01:05:54,404 --> 01:05:55,460
or I'm coming back.

800
01:06:02,410 --> 01:06:05,374
Although none of us got the first ascent,

801
01:06:05,367 --> 01:06:06,807
I could speak for myself

802
01:06:06,805 --> 01:06:09,224
I would do it all over again.

803
01:06:23,663 --> 01:06:25,446
The route is clean, bolted,

804
01:06:25,447 --> 01:06:27,317
the anchors are in place,

805
01:06:27,319 --> 01:06:31,377
and it's open and ready for whoever wants to take the challenge

806
01:06:31,377 --> 01:06:32,796
and climb The Sultan.

807
01:06:37,169 --> 01:06:39,572
Mohammad told me that when he was a kid

808
01:06:39,566 --> 01:06:41,297
His mom said “Mohammad,

809
01:06:41,298 --> 01:06:43,966
every country you have a true friend

810
01:06:43,967 --> 01:06:45,176
you have a home.”

811
01:06:45,177 --> 01:06:48,118
So now, I have feel I have a home in Jordan,

812
01:06:48,111 --> 01:06:49,025
in Wadi Rum.

813
01:06:49,014 --> 01:06:52,725
And Mohammad has a home in the United States.

814
01:06:52,726 --> 01:06:54,935
Oh it’s one of those wherever I’m going to move?

815
01:06:59,164 --> 01:07:01,943
Well I'll try to turn it your way, Mohammad.

816
01:08:02,475 --> 01:08:05,485
Who is in favor of this proposal?

817
01:08:06,086 --> 01:08:09,589
Congratulations Tokyo 2020.

818
01:08:10,212 --> 01:08:13,909
Holy shit! Climbing is in the Olympics.

819
01:08:13,910 --> 01:08:17,204
The fringey adventure sport we all obsess over

820
01:08:17,205 --> 01:08:20,332
is headed for the biggest athletic stage on Earth:

821
01:08:20,333 --> 01:08:22,334
Tokyo 2020.

822
01:08:22,450 --> 01:08:26,547
The world's best climbers will compete in a combined event:

823
01:08:27,715 --> 01:08:28,466
lead climbing,

824
01:08:29,175 --> 01:08:30,009
bouldering,

825
01:08:31,302 --> 01:08:32,595
and speed climbing.

826
01:08:33,513 --> 01:08:36,391
Wait, what in the hell is speed climbing?

827
01:08:36,717 --> 01:08:38,882
Speed climbing is a race.

828
01:08:38,880 --> 01:08:41,770
A fifteen meter dash, but this is vertical.

829
01:08:41,771 --> 01:08:43,522
To see who can get to the top the fastest.

830
01:08:43,523 --> 01:08:45,274
Among top competition climbers

831
01:08:45,275 --> 01:08:48,373
speed climbing tends to provoke strong reactions.

832
01:08:48,425 --> 01:08:49,592
People rag on it.

833
01:08:49,787 --> 01:08:51,582
A lot of people don't think it's real climbing.

834
01:08:51,601 --> 01:08:53,516
I'm not the biggest fan of speed climbing.

835
01:08:53,515 --> 01:08:54,410
I don't like it.

836
01:08:54,408 --> 01:08:57,021
You're doing the same climb, over and over again?

837
01:08:57,062 --> 01:09:00,083
I just don't really see it as the real climbing.

838
01:09:00,202 --> 01:09:01,955
Just climbing a route and it’s the same all day

839
01:09:01,957 --> 01:09:03,608
just sounds really fucking boring to me.

840
01:09:03,606 --> 01:09:04,633
But like it or not,

841
01:09:04,633 --> 01:09:06,593
for one combined Olympic event,

842
01:09:06,591 --> 01:09:10,600
the world's top climbers now have to learn how to speed climb.

843
01:09:10,598 --> 01:09:11,859
The best climbers out there,

844
01:09:11,860 --> 01:09:14,024
they really aren't the best speed climbers.

845
01:09:14,027 --> 01:09:17,276
I definitely could've gone most of my life without speed climbing.

846
01:09:18,515 --> 01:09:20,599
Ah, it's a nightmare for me.

847
01:09:21,293 --> 01:09:24,027
So what is this obscure sub-discipline?

848
01:09:24,526 --> 01:09:25,818
Where did it come from?

849
01:09:26,000 --> 01:09:27,387
How do you get good at it?

850
01:09:27,431 --> 01:09:31,184
And how's it going to look to a worldwide Olympic audience

851
01:09:31,312 --> 01:09:32,649
in 2020?

852
01:09:32,709 --> 01:09:33,606
Look at the time!

853
01:09:33,981 --> 01:09:34,651
It's time

854
01:09:34,653 --> 01:09:36,274
to get Up to Speed.

855
01:09:41,933 --> 01:09:42,868
Hi, I'm Zac.

856
01:09:43,338 --> 01:09:47,026
Reel Rock producer and inveterate trad dad.

857
01:09:47,151 --> 01:09:49,146
Over the hill and out of shape,

858
01:09:49,320 --> 01:09:51,933
my glory days decades in the rearview.

859
01:09:52,488 --> 01:09:54,494
I pine for how climbing used to be

860
01:09:54,799 --> 01:09:58,351
and confront all new developments in the sport with skepticism.

861
01:09:58,348 --> 01:09:59,943
Instagram is gross.

862
01:09:59,990 --> 01:10:02,121
So when Reel Rock sent me on assignment

863
01:10:02,121 --> 01:10:04,190
to find out what speed climbing is all about,

864
01:10:04,587 --> 01:10:07,096
I had to suppress my inner curmudgeon

865
01:10:07,125 --> 01:10:08,659
and keep and open mind.

866
01:10:09,854 --> 01:10:11,688
My first stop is Ascent Studio

867
01:10:11,855 --> 01:10:13,647
where I meet up with John Brosler,

868
01:10:13,834 --> 01:10:16,221
one of the best speed climbers in America.

869
01:10:16,220 --> 01:10:17,134
Let's take a step back and just kind of

870
01:10:17,134 --> 01:10:18,490
give me an overview.

871
01:10:18,488 --> 01:10:19,875
So this is the speed route.

872
01:10:19,876 --> 01:10:21,293
This wall is ten meters

873
01:10:21,294 --> 01:10:23,128
and there's a fifteen meter version, too.

874
01:10:23,129 --> 01:10:25,297
It's standardized all around the world.

875
01:10:25,298 --> 01:10:28,175
You compete, train, all on the same set of holds.

876
01:10:28,176 --> 01:10:29,623
Been doing it for a long time.

877
01:10:29,622 --> 01:10:30,767
Yeah, how long?

878
01:10:30,769 --> 01:10:33,184
Like six years I've been competing on this route.

879
01:10:33,185 --> 01:10:35,015
For six years you've been climbing

880
01:10:35,585 --> 01:10:36,080
the same route?

881
01:10:36,074 --> 01:10:36,996
Yeah, yeah.

882
01:10:36,997 --> 01:10:38,013
Yeah, I have.

883
01:10:38,415 --> 01:10:41,359
John tells me that the best way to learn about speed climbing

884
01:10:41,448 --> 01:10:42,871
is just to try it for yourself.

885
01:10:43,206 --> 01:10:45,795
On the third beep, that's when you go.

886
01:10:45,944 --> 01:10:47,413
And, I'm off!

887
01:10:48,154 --> 01:10:51,574
Like a forty-four year old getting out of bed to change a diaper.

888
01:10:51,974 --> 01:10:52,642
Nice.

889
01:10:53,398 --> 01:10:55,243
The grade, it's no gimme,

890
01:10:55,244 --> 01:10:56,435
around 5.10 plus.

891
01:10:56,441 --> 01:10:57,192
There you go.

892
01:10:58,297 --> 01:10:59,594
But a few holds up

893
01:10:59,647 --> 01:11:01,105
something starts to happen.

894
01:11:01,250 --> 01:11:02,959
I find a groove.

895
01:11:02,960 --> 01:11:04,503
I've got some flow.

896
01:11:04,504 --> 01:11:08,006
In my head, I am flying up this thing!

897
01:11:08,007 --> 01:11:10,592
This is, without a doubt,

898
01:11:10,590 --> 01:11:12,392
the fastest I have climbed anything

899
01:11:12,393 --> 01:11:13,947
ever.

900
01:11:15,095 --> 01:11:15,900
Nice.

901
01:11:24,424 --> 01:11:25,132
Nice work.

902
01:11:25,132 --> 01:11:27,103
I was looking at my time:

903
01:11:27,179 --> 01:11:28,276
33.93.

904
01:11:28,277 --> 01:11:29,695
Not bad, first try.

905
01:11:29,755 --> 01:11:32,048
Climbing ten meters in under thirty four seconds

906
01:11:32,142 --> 01:11:33,600
seems pretty fast to me.

907
01:11:33,699 --> 01:11:35,200
I'd love to see you try it.

908
01:11:35,201 --> 01:11:35,952
Okay.

909
01:11:55,490 --> 01:11:57,184
We look like different species.

910
01:12:00,437 --> 01:12:01,924
As the session wears on

911
01:12:01,936 --> 01:12:04,063
and John delights in lapping me

912
01:12:04,085 --> 01:12:07,208
I realize just how difficult speed climbing is.

913
01:12:07,814 --> 01:12:10,734
Clearly not something you can hope to master overnight.

914
01:12:11,890 --> 01:12:14,823
Next, I'm off to the U.S. Nationals Competition

915
01:12:14,961 --> 01:12:18,184
to watch America's speed climbers go head to head.

916
01:12:18,748 --> 01:12:20,975
The comp’s main event is lead climbing

917
01:12:21,191 --> 01:12:23,738
where the stars of our sport dominate.

918
01:12:23,999 --> 01:12:27,836
Even as an old tradster, I can appreciate competition lead climbing.

919
01:12:28,462 --> 01:12:29,879
It demands route finding,

920
01:12:29,880 --> 01:12:32,967
endurance, and a wide range of techniques.

921
01:12:33,509 --> 01:12:35,469
Basically, climbing as we know it.

922
01:12:37,624 --> 01:12:39,205
Alright we are just getting this

923
01:12:39,202 --> 01:12:41,336
fifteen meter speed wall up and running here.

924
01:12:41,328 --> 01:12:43,710
That's right Brian, this wall that you're seeing right now

925
01:12:43,705 --> 01:12:47,648
is exactly the wall in the 2020 Olympic Games.

926
01:12:48,023 --> 01:12:49,274
The crowd is curious.

927
01:12:49,431 --> 01:12:51,109
It seems I'm not the only one

928
01:12:51,110 --> 01:12:52,737
who heard the Olympic announcement

929
01:12:52,729 --> 01:12:55,181
and is wondering what this sport is all about.

930
01:12:56,528 --> 01:12:58,992
The dedicated speed climbers enter the hall

931
01:12:58,993 --> 01:13:02,337
and embark on a warm-up routine that is, well,

932
01:13:02,330 --> 01:13:03,143
different.

933
01:13:24,602 --> 01:13:25,184
Here we go,

934
01:13:25,185 --> 01:13:26,186
silence!

935
01:13:26,353 --> 01:13:28,605
I do appreciate about the speed climbing, Brian

936
01:13:28,606 --> 01:13:30,440
that it is cut and dry.

937
01:13:30,441 --> 01:13:32,860
Clear as any running race.

938
01:13:34,612 --> 01:13:36,571
Wow. Blistering.

939
01:13:36,572 --> 01:13:38,532
They're just, flying up this wall.

940
01:13:38,908 --> 01:13:39,741
Very exciting!

941
01:13:39,742 --> 01:13:41,035
To say the least.

942
01:13:42,202 --> 01:13:46,873
In speed climbing, it's all about how fast you can do 17 moves.

943
01:13:46,874 --> 01:13:49,250
The climbing itself is very powerful.

944
01:13:49,251 --> 01:13:50,418
A lot of hand foot matches,

945
01:13:50,419 --> 01:13:51,628
not looking down at all.

946
01:13:51,629 --> 01:13:53,338
And if you really think too hard about the climb

947
01:13:53,339 --> 01:13:54,465
you're going to slip and fall.

948
01:13:55,549 --> 01:13:59,052
You've done the route so many times, you have to trust your muscle memory.

949
01:13:59,053 --> 01:14:01,055
I'm hitting my marks, I'm being accurate.

950
01:14:01,847 --> 01:14:04,724
The more their hips are in a perfectly straight line

951
01:14:04,725 --> 01:14:06,143
the faster you're going to go.

952
01:14:06,268 --> 01:14:08,811
There's something euphoric about running up a wall,

953
01:14:08,812 --> 01:14:10,064
you hit that buzzer,

954
01:14:10,859 --> 01:14:11,986
and the crowd goes wild.

955
01:14:12,178 --> 01:14:14,267
I’m like, “I just ran up that wall!”

956
01:14:14,318 --> 01:14:16,340
And it just feels good!

957
01:14:16,338 --> 01:14:17,445
This is Max Hammer.

958
01:14:18,361 --> 01:14:20,699
He's got the best speed climber name you can imagine,

959
01:14:20,988 --> 01:14:23,529
To the Max, Drop the Hammer.

960
01:14:23,658 --> 01:14:24,885
Hammer Time!

961
01:14:28,450 --> 01:14:29,513
I'll embrace it.

962
01:14:29,511 --> 01:14:30,508
Hammer Time's cool.

963
01:14:30,494 --> 01:14:35,363
It turns out, Max is only one of four speed climbers in the Hammer Clan.

964
01:14:35,621 --> 01:14:39,198
So my whole family is addicted to speed and I am so proud.

965
01:14:41,327 --> 01:14:43,738
The sport’s really growing and now that it's going to be in the Olympics

966
01:14:44,157 --> 01:14:45,852
I love that everyone's getting in on speed.

967
01:14:46,239 --> 01:14:50,050
Also competing here in Reno are some of America's top Olympic hopefuls

968
01:14:50,051 --> 01:14:53,095
who are looking to get some speed experience under their belts.

969
01:14:53,179 --> 01:14:57,168
The best climbers, they're realizing, yeah this is a difficult sport to get into.

970
01:14:59,672 --> 01:15:00,715
There's always false starts.

971
01:15:04,208 --> 01:15:05,614
Speed climbing’s pretty brutal.

972
01:15:05,612 --> 01:15:07,029
I'm like “Where are my feet?”

973
01:15:07,235 --> 01:15:09,028
I know that my beta’s wrong.

974
01:15:10,071 --> 01:15:11,864
I'm not very good at speed.

975
01:15:12,420 --> 01:15:13,755
You can't look down at your feet,

976
01:15:14,082 --> 01:15:15,292
but then you fall.

977
01:15:18,098 --> 01:15:21,642
In speed climbing, I'm not the pro.

978
01:15:22,401 --> 01:15:24,252
I'm just learning.

979
01:15:27,860 --> 01:15:31,175
I'm sure people are like, “Oh my gosh what's she doing?”

980
01:15:31,603 --> 01:15:35,523
At this competition, most of the big names finish at the bottom of the results

981
01:15:35,930 --> 01:15:38,140
with one notable exception.

982
01:15:38,141 --> 01:15:40,934
Claire Burhfeind, a young crusher from Texas,

983
01:15:40,935 --> 01:15:43,426
wins both the lead and speed comps.

984
01:15:43,431 --> 01:15:46,314
National Champion Claire Burhfeind!

985
01:15:46,315 --> 01:15:48,818
Take note, she’s one to watch.

986
01:15:49,093 --> 01:15:51,177
Meanwhile, my man, John Brosler,

987
01:15:51,315 --> 01:15:54,651
sets a new American speed record on the fifteen meter wall.

988
01:15:54,853 --> 01:15:58,857
He was going so fast his belayers fell over just trying to keep up!

989
01:15:59,495 --> 01:16:03,179
I'm psyched. And I'm looking forward to the world championships in Austria as well.

990
01:16:03,181 --> 01:16:07,130
And then Olympics, maybe? 2020? If I can get that far.

991
01:16:07,130 --> 01:16:08,555
So, so yeah.

992
01:16:09,863 --> 01:16:12,490
Now that I've had a look at the sub-culture of speed

993
01:16:12,512 --> 01:16:14,764
I want to explore deeper into its roots.

994
01:16:15,636 --> 01:16:19,599
Back in my day, speed climbing was synonymous with one guy,

995
01:16:19,720 --> 01:16:21,389
Hollywood Hans Florine.

996
01:16:22,898 --> 01:16:26,469
He's best known for breaking the speed record on The Nose of El Cap

997
01:16:26,466 --> 01:16:27,467
in Yosemite.

998
01:16:27,694 --> 01:16:31,621
But Hans has also long embraced indoor speed comps

999
01:16:31,619 --> 01:16:34,967
as an antidote to the drowsy pace of lead climbing.

1000
01:16:34,966 --> 01:16:37,342
You watch the quote "normal climbing".

1001
01:16:37,440 --> 01:16:40,526
Somebody like this up on the wall, not moving.

1002
01:16:40,786 --> 01:16:44,873
Went to the next hold. He's got to look solid, he could do it.

1003
01:16:44,874 --> 01:16:46,966
Oh, wow, he just reached up with his left hand.

1004
01:16:46,975 --> 01:16:47,805
Great.

1005
01:16:47,965 --> 01:16:49,197
It's pretty boring stuff!

1006
01:16:49,201 --> 01:16:50,647
Back in the 1990s,

1007
01:16:50,789 --> 01:16:54,784
the X Games experimented with a TV friendly speed format.

1008
01:16:54,790 --> 01:17:00,212
ESPN realized that they need amazingly fast dynamic movement that's wild.

1009
01:17:01,509 --> 01:17:02,301
This is huge!

1010
01:17:02,890 --> 01:17:05,309
We're actually going up there and taking ten meter whippers.

1011
01:17:05,761 --> 01:17:07,346
Boom! That’s entertainment.

1012
01:17:10,280 --> 01:17:13,616
At the heart of speed climbing is the route itself,

1013
01:17:13,960 --> 01:17:15,314
which was designed twenty years ago

1014
01:17:15,314 --> 01:17:18,369
by the famous French route setter Jacky Godoffe.

1015
01:17:19,307 --> 01:17:22,048
Jacky is a true artiste of the craft

1016
01:17:22,634 --> 01:17:26,654
whose meticulous process, strives to create poetry in motion.

1017
01:17:33,370 --> 01:17:35,360
But the speed climb Jacky created

1018
01:17:35,375 --> 01:17:37,696
was anything but a masterpiece.

1019
01:17:37,884 --> 01:17:39,317
In the early 2000's,

1020
01:17:39,434 --> 01:17:42,210
comp organizers were bugging Jacky to create

1021
01:17:42,209 --> 01:17:44,326
a faster route for their event.

1022
01:17:44,547 --> 01:17:47,951
So he slapped one together in a single afternoon.

1023
01:17:47,948 --> 01:17:50,846
And all these holds were in a box in Arco,

1024
01:17:50,843 --> 01:17:53,444
and then I opened the box and I started to play.

1025
01:17:58,276 --> 01:18:00,122
Jacky's route was used in one comp,

1026
01:18:00,259 --> 01:18:01,378
and then another,

1027
01:18:01,391 --> 01:18:02,808
and yet another.

1028
01:18:03,292 --> 01:18:05,143
And as it became the go to speed route

1029
01:18:05,953 --> 01:18:07,747
nobody bothered to update it.

1030
01:18:08,653 --> 01:18:10,870
To this day the route contains several enduring quirks

1031
01:18:11,371 --> 01:18:13,289
that climbers have just come to accept.

1032
01:18:13,308 --> 01:18:17,801
Near the top, there's a tiny foothold that everyone uses with their hand.

1033
01:18:18,923 --> 01:18:21,680
And there's this big hold out to the left that nobody uses

1034
01:18:22,257 --> 01:18:25,344
and yet it remains, lonely and unheld.

1035
01:18:34,770 --> 01:18:36,187
Despite its imperfections,

1036
01:18:36,188 --> 01:18:39,608
demand for Jacky's speed route has surged ahead of the Olympics.

1037
01:18:40,777 --> 01:18:43,237
In this one facility in Grenoble, France,

1038
01:18:43,373 --> 01:18:46,834
every single speed hold is fabricated and tested.

1039
01:18:47,241 --> 01:18:51,160
Technicians confirm the holds' consistency, tag it with a unique code,

1040
01:18:51,161 --> 01:18:53,330
and track its location for a lifetime.

1041
01:18:53,832 --> 01:18:56,500
At the Perfect Descent headquarters in Denver,

1042
01:18:57,289 --> 01:19:00,792
speed autobelays are specially manufactured

1043
01:19:01,163 --> 01:19:03,248
to hold ten thousand pounds,

1044
01:19:03,596 --> 01:19:05,681
recoil extra fast,

1045
01:19:05,673 --> 01:19:08,474
and shipped to comps and training centers around the world.

1046
01:19:10,091 --> 01:19:12,455
Every single feature of every speed wall,

1047
01:19:12,773 --> 01:19:15,108
down to the distance between t-nut holes,

1048
01:19:15,114 --> 01:19:16,406
is standardized

1049
01:19:16,399 --> 01:19:21,600
so that everyone competes on the same playing field, no matter where they are.

1050
01:19:25,653 --> 01:19:27,213
To check out the leading edge of this sport,

1051
01:19:27,211 --> 01:19:31,141
I head to its epicenter, the Russian Federation,

1052
01:19:31,324 --> 01:19:34,105
where the fastest climbers on the planet have come

1053
01:19:34,100 --> 01:19:37,066
to torch records at the World Cup of Speed.

1054
01:19:37,062 --> 01:19:39,998
I've come to Moscow to watch the best speed climbers in the world.

1055
01:19:39,992 --> 01:19:43,144
Just seeing what climbing in the Olympics is going to look like.

1056
01:19:43,963 --> 01:19:47,060
Russia is the birthplace of competition speed climbing.

1057
01:19:47,357 --> 01:19:49,219
It all began in the Soviet era

1058
01:19:49,541 --> 01:19:52,980
when the State built athletes into fine-tuned, winning machines

1059
01:19:53,026 --> 01:19:55,251
in a wide array of sports.

1060
01:20:06,427 --> 01:20:08,571
As early as 1947,

1061
01:20:08,737 --> 01:20:12,891
Russian climbers began holding outdoor speed climbing competitions.

1062
01:20:30,539 --> 01:20:33,974
And today, speed is an even bigger part of Russian climbing.

1063
01:20:47,149 --> 01:20:47,900
Our country

1064
01:20:49,718 --> 01:20:50,677
loves it.

1065
01:20:50,919 --> 01:20:54,881
In the Russian system, kids are recruited from an early age.

1066
01:20:54,883 --> 01:20:59,970
My parents, they just took my hand and said something like

1067
01:20:59,970 --> 01:21:03,023
"Okay, here you are, that's your sport."

1068
01:21:04,388 --> 01:21:08,063
In Russia, the child they start with speed.

1069
01:21:08,062 --> 01:21:12,721
And if you are good in speed, you climb only speed.

1070
01:21:12,973 --> 01:21:14,606
And training comes with a heavy dose

1071
01:21:14,601 --> 01:21:16,248
of Spartan dedication.

1072
01:21:17,457 --> 01:21:19,303
Yes, we do a lot of training, a lot of practice.

1073
01:21:19,300 --> 01:21:22,326
If you're a speed climber, all your life you have to be

1074
01:21:22,330 --> 01:21:23,888
dedicated to the sport.

1075
01:21:25,975 --> 01:21:27,767
We climb outside during the winter.

1076
01:21:27,762 --> 01:21:30,764
In Siberia, -30 or -40.

1077
01:21:30,890 --> 01:21:33,586
This is our atmosphere and our culture.

1078
01:21:33,592 --> 01:21:35,521
We don't climb speed for fun.

1079
01:21:37,622 --> 01:21:38,429
It's like "Okay, bro!"

1080
01:21:38,495 --> 01:21:40,831
"Okay, peace!" In speed, no.

1081
01:21:40,838 --> 01:21:43,890
There is no joke. This is a serious thing.

1082
01:21:45,875 --> 01:21:49,037
At the Moscow World Cup, I discover several other national teams

1083
01:21:49,041 --> 01:21:52,004
that occupy this upper echelon in speed climbing

1084
01:21:53,187 --> 01:21:55,838
and take this sport very seriously.

1085
01:21:56,221 --> 01:22:00,662
The French are here, of course, featuring top-ranked Anouck Jaubert.

1086
01:22:00,820 --> 01:22:02,271
We need strong legs

1087
01:22:03,090 --> 01:22:05,200
and also strong arms,

1088
01:22:05,439 --> 01:22:07,774
everything to lead you to the top.

1089
01:22:08,459 --> 01:22:11,235
There's a big team here from Indonesia.

1090
01:22:19,764 --> 01:22:23,142
Aries Susanti Rahayu is a famous athlete in her home country

1091
01:22:41,736 --> 01:22:45,555
And one team that will not go unnoticed is the Iranians.

1092
01:22:49,057 --> 01:22:50,808
Zac, are you going to flex, too?

1093
01:22:50,809 --> 01:22:52,018
I don't think so.

1094
01:22:53,129 --> 01:22:55,949
Team Iran is led by the five foot five,

1095
01:22:55,950 --> 01:22:59,380
one hundred sixty eight pound, Reza Alipour.

1096
01:22:59,459 --> 01:23:01,334
Aka: the Persian Cheetah.

1097
01:23:12,551 --> 01:23:14,625
Reza is renowned for a training regimen

1098
01:23:14,620 --> 01:23:17,641
that puts Rocky Balboa to shame.

1099
01:23:17,939 --> 01:23:20,842
Reza is amazing, he's a physical freak.

1100
01:23:21,318 --> 01:23:24,943
It's a level of explosive power beyond anything I've ever seen.

1101
01:23:24,939 --> 01:23:26,767
Absolutely incredible!

1102
01:23:26,857 --> 01:23:29,246
He is the Usain Bolt of speed climbing!

1103
01:23:29,371 --> 01:23:32,219
Nothing can make Reza stop.

1104
01:23:32,240 --> 01:23:33,827
Yes, nothing.

1105
01:23:34,014 --> 01:23:38,948
In 2017, Reza set out to break the sport's longstanding record time.

1106
01:23:44,117 --> 01:23:47,277
Reza switched up his beta skipping the fourth hand hold

1107
01:23:47,280 --> 01:23:50,104
that up until then had always been used.

1108
01:23:51,185 --> 01:23:53,024
The innovation was widely adopted,

1109
01:23:53,016 --> 01:23:56,133
and now has a name: The Reza.

1110
01:23:56,457 --> 01:23:58,549
He's going with him, he's got half a lead, lightning fast!

1111
01:23:58,552 --> 01:24:01,144
He's going to come out champion, he's going to come out champion!

1112
01:24:01,138 --> 01:24:04,322
Look at the time! Look at the time! The world record!

1113
01:24:06,994 --> 01:24:11,984
Good afternoon, welcome to Moscow at speed world cup number one of 2018.

1114
01:24:12,660 --> 01:24:16,486
This world cup boasts the fastest field of climbers ever assembled.

1115
01:24:19,741 --> 01:24:22,970
The pure athleticism is amazing to watch,

1116
01:24:22,970 --> 01:24:24,854
and the excitement is contagious.

1117
01:24:29,434 --> 01:24:32,658
In the men's division, Reza consistently clocks times

1118
01:24:32,659 --> 01:24:33,723
under six seconds.

1119
01:24:33,879 --> 01:24:35,716
Reza absolutely flying through the middle

1120
01:24:35,714 --> 01:24:37,174
to take it in 5.7.

1121
01:24:38,050 --> 01:24:39,800
And he cruises to victory

1122
01:24:39,801 --> 01:24:42,613
much to the delight of his compatriots.

1123
01:24:53,908 --> 01:24:59,053
Meanwhile, Aries Susanti Rahayu posts one of the fastest times by a woman.

1124
01:25:06,110 --> 01:25:10,284
But Anouck Jaubert climbs even faster, matching the world record.

1125
01:25:10,303 --> 01:25:14,542
Jaubert, may crush the world record! Wow.

1126
01:25:15,220 --> 01:25:18,279
Watching these climbers from all corners of the globe

1127
01:25:18,277 --> 01:25:20,277
proudly represent their countries,

1128
01:25:21,220 --> 01:25:22,072
support each other,

1129
01:25:23,501 --> 01:25:26,600
and pursue their passion with an open throttle,

1130
01:25:26,838 --> 01:25:28,216
I can't believe it, amazing!

1131
01:25:28,580 --> 01:25:33,248
I'm really starting to get those warm and fuzzy Olympic feels.

1132
01:25:36,617 --> 01:25:38,974
And I'm not the only one.

1133
01:25:40,319 --> 01:25:44,393
As 2020 approaches, even the most skeptical pro climbers

1134
01:25:44,412 --> 01:25:46,041
have started warming to the speed event.

1135
01:25:48,239 --> 01:25:52,455
Adam Ondra, who described speed climbing as a nightmare,

1136
01:25:52,660 --> 01:25:55,294
is spending his days at this state of the art facility

1137
01:25:55,286 --> 01:25:57,203
trying to bring down his time.

1138
01:25:57,409 --> 01:26:00,867
This is the first time I'm going to train something

1139
01:26:00,860 --> 01:26:03,068
against my will.

1140
01:26:03,928 --> 01:26:06,890
But the attraction for the Olympics is there.

1141
01:26:08,325 --> 01:26:12,985
Getting good at speed is the biggest challenge of my climbing career so far.

1142
01:26:13,838 --> 01:26:17,133
So I might find a little bit of fun in that.

1143
01:26:18,055 --> 01:26:20,406
Also here is Claire Buhrfeind.

1144
01:26:20,401 --> 01:26:24,796
Remember? She won both the lead and speed comps in Reno.

1145
01:26:26,263 --> 01:26:29,871
Claire is a new breed of athlete who's competed in all three Olympic disciplines

1146
01:26:29,872 --> 01:26:31,483
since she was just a kid.

1147
01:26:32,038 --> 01:26:33,504
I've always loved competing

1148
01:26:33,502 --> 01:26:37,164
and speed climbing is like a very pure form of competition.

1149
01:26:38,583 --> 01:26:40,967
Climbing in the Olympics is an amazing opportunity,

1150
01:26:40,961 --> 01:26:43,282
and climbers from all over the world they're

1151
01:26:43,282 --> 01:26:46,523
trying to figure out what it means to train all three disciplines.

1152
01:26:49,589 --> 01:26:53,946
I think everybody should just embrace it and go for it.

1153
01:26:56,953 --> 01:27:01,542
As for me, I can see the inevitable direction this sport is going.

1154
01:27:01,761 --> 01:27:06,431
And while speed may be a far cry from the climbing I grew up with,

1155
01:27:06,542 --> 01:27:07,338
that's okay.

1156
01:27:08,922 --> 01:27:10,925
Instead of being a stick in the mud,

1157
01:27:11,406 --> 01:27:13,740
I'm determined to keep up with the times.

1158
01:28:15,911 --> 01:28:19,695
Admiral Byrd you've been to both the North Pole and the South Pole.

1159
01:28:19,952 --> 01:28:23,206
Is there any unexplored land left on this Earth?

1160
01:28:23,308 --> 01:28:24,558
Yes, there is.

1161
01:28:24,774 --> 01:28:27,026
Strangely enough there's left in the world, today,

1162
01:28:27,027 --> 01:28:32,531
an area as big as the United States, now by far the coldest spot in the world

1163
01:28:32,532 --> 01:28:34,451
that's never been seen by human beings.

1164
01:28:35,535 --> 01:28:40,040
It's quite astonishing that there should be an area as big as that unexplored.

1165
01:28:41,082 --> 01:28:44,127
So there's a lot of adventure left down at the bottom of the world.

1166
01:28:46,638 --> 01:28:49,140
Going to the ice! Yeah!

1167
01:28:54,096 --> 01:28:57,890
Why this interest in the bottom of the world?

1168
01:28:57,891 --> 01:29:00,476
I'll tell you one reason they're interested:

1169
01:29:00,477 --> 01:29:05,190
it's by far the most valuable place left in the world for expeditions.

1170
01:29:06,024 --> 01:29:10,152
I've been wondering how cold Antarctica's going to be for a long time.

1171
01:29:10,153 --> 01:29:11,862
It's properly cold.

1172
01:29:11,863 --> 01:29:14,199
But I don't think this is very cold for Antarctica.

1173
01:29:20,163 --> 01:29:23,707
Not just a little bit windy but, like, really, really, really windy.

1174
01:29:23,708 --> 01:29:28,337
My worst fear is that we spend two weeks here at the Russian base

1175
01:29:28,338 --> 01:29:32,341
and we aren't able to fly to our objective. That'd be really sad.

1176
01:29:32,342 --> 01:29:33,050
We'll see,

1177
01:29:33,051 --> 01:29:35,679
It's cold. My snot is freezing.

1178
01:29:35,960 --> 01:29:38,056
This is totally insane!

1179
01:29:40,684 --> 01:29:43,721
So we're here in Antarctica with Conrad Anker,

1180
01:29:43,712 --> 01:29:44,921
Jimmy Chin,

1181
01:29:44,922 --> 01:29:45,880
Cedar Wright,

1182
01:29:45,871 --> 01:29:46,663
Anna Pfaff,

1183
01:29:46,664 --> 01:29:47,664
Savannah Cummins,

1184
01:29:47,858 --> 01:29:49,025
and last and least Alex Honnold.

1185
01:29:49,901 --> 01:29:52,319
I mean, when I heard that this trip to Antarctica was happening

1186
01:29:52,320 --> 01:29:53,763
I was like "That sounds terrible."

1187
01:29:53,754 --> 01:29:55,698
I hate the cold and I hate the snow,

1188
01:29:55,699 --> 01:29:56,908
and Antarctica has a lot of both.

1189
01:29:58,110 --> 01:30:00,842
I don't know, I think pretty much right up until we landed on the glacier

1190
01:30:00,858 --> 01:30:03,832
I was still sort of 50/50 on whether or not I wanted to come to Antarctica.

1191
01:30:04,666 --> 01:30:07,042
Coming to the Novo Air Base felt a little bit like

1192
01:30:07,043 --> 01:30:08,295
an episode of Star Wars.

1193
01:30:11,965 --> 01:30:13,173
You have your base,

1194
01:30:13,174 --> 01:30:16,520
and you have your life pod, you go into your shipping container and you survive.

1195
01:30:16,970 --> 01:30:20,437
You have to have your space suit, you have to put on all this stuff just to survive.

1196
01:30:24,853 --> 01:30:26,730
Well, it's blowing pretty good.

1197
01:30:42,454 --> 01:30:46,874
It's like dead silent, there's no wind, it's actually kind of warm,

1198
01:30:46,875 --> 01:30:50,055
but there's the craziest ice crystals I have ever seen.

1199
01:30:50,128 --> 01:30:53,047
This place hasn't been photographed all that much

1200
01:30:53,048 --> 01:30:55,300
which is really cool for me to come here with open eyes.

1201
01:30:58,652 --> 01:31:03,739
Ice caving is fun, but we're going mountain climbing and we're not there.

1202
01:31:03,756 --> 01:31:09,221
The weather is still not flyable so here we are.

1203
01:31:09,254 --> 01:31:13,007
I really started to think that we were going to spend our entire trip in Novo

1204
01:31:13,071 --> 01:31:16,293
and I was going to fucking have you pull the snowmobile over my face or something.

1205
01:31:17,226 --> 01:31:18,725
Just back it over me repeatedly until I died.

1206
01:31:22,242 --> 01:31:24,871
Yeah, and then Conrad turned 55

1207
01:31:26,456 --> 01:31:26,997
in Antarctica

1208
01:31:26,998 --> 01:31:30,042
so we had a really nice surprise birthday party for him.

1209
01:31:30,603 --> 01:31:39,737
Happy birthday to you, happy birthday to you!

1210
01:31:43,039 --> 01:31:45,124
I feel old, I'm 55.

1211
01:31:48,186 --> 01:31:51,982
I mean I look at Sav, she's 25, she was 4 years old when we were here.

1212
01:31:52,816 --> 01:31:54,276
I don't think she knew what a carabiner was.

1213
01:31:56,111 --> 01:31:58,196
I think it's fair to say that Conrad is a legend.

1214
01:31:59,489 --> 01:32:00,948
I mean I've always thought Conrad is the man,

1215
01:32:00,949 --> 01:32:02,908
and the fact that he is so totally passionate about climbing

1216
01:32:02,909 --> 01:32:04,410
and excited to push himself.

1217
01:32:04,411 --> 01:32:07,664
I mean, he had a frickin heart attack on a 6,000 meter peak last year.

1218
01:32:08,665 --> 01:32:13,837
It was November, 16, 2016, and I suffered a heart attack in Nepal.

1219
01:32:14,463 --> 01:32:16,674
The Grim Reaper sat down next to me,

1220
01:32:16,671 --> 01:32:20,172
was like, "Hey, how's it going? Let's have a conversation today."

1221
01:32:20,195 --> 01:32:24,000
I'm like, "Well fuck you, get out of here, I'm not ready yet. I'm not giving up."

1222
01:32:25,894 --> 01:32:28,146
Not a lot of people would've survive that.

1223
01:32:28,567 --> 01:32:30,989
I mean the guy is a beast, he's a survivor.

1224
01:32:30,979 --> 01:32:33,898
And now here he is in Antarctica a year later and you're like

1225
01:32:34,078 --> 01:32:35,317
"That's pretty impressive."

1226
01:32:36,010 --> 01:32:38,485
I try not to see myself as a 55-year-old guy.

1227
01:32:38,486 --> 01:32:41,239
I'm just in there in the mix with the other 30-year-olds.

1228
01:32:50,916 --> 01:32:52,250
Okay, alright let's go!

1229
01:32:53,710 --> 01:32:57,422
Oh my God it's happening! I can't believe it!

1230
01:33:05,931 --> 01:33:09,266
I didn't realize how many mountains there are in Antarctica,

1231
01:33:09,267 --> 01:33:10,977
there's peaks poking up everywhere.

1232
01:33:14,314 --> 01:33:18,693
It's insane dude, I mean it's like the most ridiculous landscape ever.

1233
01:33:40,048 --> 01:33:40,465
Base camp!

1234
01:33:42,217 --> 01:33:42,968
Here we are.

1235
01:33:50,308 --> 01:33:54,103
It was just dead silent, looking around being like "Woah!"

1236
01:33:54,104 --> 01:33:56,231
"We're the only ones out here right now."

1237
01:33:57,816 --> 01:33:59,817
There's just infinite whiteness as far as you can see

1238
01:33:59,818 --> 01:34:02,487
and I guess that goes for over 1,000 miles to the South Pole.

1239
01:34:04,614 --> 01:34:06,074
Bye!

1240
01:34:07,492 --> 01:34:08,994
Wait, I forgot my iPhone!

1241
01:34:10,620 --> 01:34:14,748
Oddly enough, I really enjoy the simplicity of being dropped off in a remote place

1242
01:34:14,749 --> 01:34:16,710
and having to be self-sufficient for two weeks.

1243
01:34:21,199 --> 01:34:22,442
Hey Alex, can you dig it?

1244
01:34:22,537 --> 01:34:23,787
I dig it.

1245
01:34:23,941 --> 01:34:24,915
I'm digging the latrine.

1246
01:34:25,544 --> 01:34:26,428
That's pretty exciting.

1247
01:34:27,888 --> 01:34:31,573
Queen Maud Land is one of the most spectacular mountain ranges on Earth.

1248
01:34:32,100 --> 01:34:35,420
Outrageous granite spires leaping up out of the ice.

1249
01:34:36,104 --> 01:34:39,088
For the next three weeks we're going to attack this range.

1250
01:34:39,232 --> 01:34:40,192
Yeah!

1251
01:34:41,026 --> 01:34:42,860
Sav and Anna are the young guns on this trip.

1252
01:34:42,861 --> 01:34:46,906
They're basically starting their partnership doing first ascents in Antarctica,

1253
01:34:46,907 --> 01:34:48,115
which is kind of insane.

1254
01:34:48,116 --> 01:34:50,534
This is my first year ever going on an expedition.

1255
01:34:50,535 --> 01:34:52,328
I'm totally out of my element.

1256
01:34:52,329 --> 01:34:53,509
What crampons are you bringing?

1257
01:34:54,130 --> 01:34:55,513
It's cool being out of your element.

1258
01:34:55,916 --> 01:34:59,793
I've been expedition climbing for about ten years,

1259
01:34:59,794 --> 01:35:02,421
I hope I can be somewhat of a mentor for her.

1260
01:35:02,710 --> 01:35:04,086
We're psyched on this ridge here.

1261
01:35:05,050 --> 01:35:07,092
Conrad and Jimmy are the old dads.

1262
01:35:07,093 --> 01:35:11,180
They are going to be going big wall style, toiling away on one gnarly objective.

1263
01:35:11,181 --> 01:35:14,308
Conrad showed up in base camp and within an hour

1264
01:35:14,309 --> 01:35:15,851
had sighted the route.

1265
01:35:15,852 --> 01:35:19,104
A new route on the north-west buttress of Ulvetanna.

1266
01:35:19,105 --> 01:35:20,064
It's definitely the biggest.

1267
01:35:20,065 --> 01:35:21,982
He was like "Alright, that's the one!"

1268
01:35:21,983 --> 01:35:24,402
and I took a look at it and I was like "yeah..."

1269
01:35:24,945 --> 01:35:27,404
Going big wall climbing!

1270
01:35:27,405 --> 01:35:28,322
I guess...

1271
01:35:28,323 --> 01:35:30,407
Honnold and I are team suffer-fest.

1272
01:35:30,408 --> 01:35:32,826
Yeah, we're going to sketch-up as many of these towers as we can.

1273
01:35:32,827 --> 01:35:34,828
Alex made the rack but I don't really like it.

1274
01:35:34,829 --> 01:35:36,664
I'm maybe going to sneak a couple pieces on.

1275
01:35:36,665 --> 01:35:38,500
Alright guys, love you, we'll see you.

1276
01:35:42,930 --> 01:35:45,924
I mean, Jesus, these are huge mountains!

1277
01:35:46,675 --> 01:35:48,008
God, what a surreal place.

1278
01:35:48,009 --> 01:35:48,842
It's is insane!

1279
01:35:48,843 --> 01:35:50,886
I'm starting to get sort of,

1280
01:35:50,887 --> 01:35:51,428
Stoked?

1281
01:35:51,429 --> 01:35:52,012
sort of inspired.

1282
01:35:52,013 --> 01:35:56,393
More than any other place I've ever been, I feel like we are not meant to be here.

1283
01:35:57,394 --> 01:35:59,770
If something were to go wrong, it would be pretty bad.

1284
01:35:59,771 --> 01:36:01,981
I'm a nurse but I can't do anything, you know,

1285
01:36:01,982 --> 01:36:04,650
if a Band-aid can't fix it you're kind of fucked out here.

1286
01:36:04,651 --> 01:36:06,361
Wait, am I allowed to say "fuck"? Okay.

1287
01:36:07,946 --> 01:36:10,114
This is going to be do I sink or do I swim?

1288
01:36:10,115 --> 01:36:11,533
And i'm really hoping that I swim.

1289
01:36:14,870 --> 01:36:16,204
It's so crumbly!

1290
01:36:16,621 --> 01:36:20,750
It's mentally challenging, because everything is so fragile and rotten and wind-blown.

1291
01:36:23,253 --> 01:36:23,962
This is sick!

1292
01:36:28,550 --> 01:36:30,169
It's just really hard to grasp the scale here.

1293
01:36:30,451 --> 01:36:31,594
How big do you think it is?

1294
01:36:31,595 --> 01:36:33,929
I'm going to bet that that's maybe 1,500 feet.

1295
01:36:33,930 --> 01:36:35,223
Looks like it could be really scary.

1296
01:36:36,646 --> 01:36:39,561
Honnold's down there, so far three pieces of protection

1297
01:36:42,856 --> 01:36:45,066
Yeah, so try not to fall suddenly but I got you.

1298
01:36:45,483 --> 01:36:47,443
The wind starts to go, then you get cold,

1299
01:36:47,444 --> 01:36:50,112
or if you go into the shade then you get really cold,

1300
01:36:50,113 --> 01:36:51,697
and the problem is there's basically this ticking clock

1301
01:36:51,698 --> 01:36:53,673
that your hands are going to turn into icy bricks,

1302
01:36:53,674 --> 01:36:56,085
and if you don't either get to the top and start rappelling

1303
01:36:56,080 --> 01:36:59,100
or just start rappelling you're going to freeze.

1304
01:36:59,247 --> 01:37:00,664
God, my hands are so cold!

1305
01:37:00,665 --> 01:37:05,085
Dream realized, first ascent of an incredible route.

1306
01:37:05,086 --> 01:37:07,172
Oh yeah! Dude we did it.

1307
01:37:09,007 --> 01:37:13,220
Okay. We're basically embarking on a Yosemite style wall.

1308
01:37:13,553 --> 01:37:17,264
Big wall climbing. It's actually kind of complex.

1309
01:37:17,265 --> 01:37:21,185
We were nervous going up but we like it, and we like to challenge ourselves.

1310
01:37:21,186 --> 01:37:22,687
Alright, Conrad. You racked?

1311
01:37:26,775 --> 01:37:29,069
Okay, ready to haul, Conrad!

1312
01:37:29,194 --> 01:37:30,402
Jimmy's coming up.

1313
01:37:30,403 --> 01:37:37,451
It's a big kind of complex mountain and a lot of the aid climbing feels like bomb diffusion

1314
01:37:37,452 --> 01:37:41,164
because at any moment, your cams could just explode out of the cracks.

1315
01:37:42,499 --> 01:37:46,585
Jimmy and I made it up the first two pitches, and for now we are fixing ropes

1316
01:37:46,586 --> 01:37:48,379
and returning to camp each day.

1317
01:37:48,380 --> 01:37:50,047
There's still a lot of mountain left.

1318
01:37:50,048 --> 01:37:51,216
Yeah, a lot.

1319
01:37:55,220 --> 01:37:57,138
Conrad!

1320
01:37:58,139 --> 01:38:01,475
There's a little close-knit community we're developing here over this expedition

1321
01:38:01,476 --> 01:38:03,602
that I always seek out.

1322
01:38:03,603 --> 01:38:05,396
Yeah, cheese-mac.

1323
01:38:05,397 --> 01:38:07,274
Oh, so good!

1324
01:38:07,566 --> 01:38:10,151
I think that all of us saw at least a little bit of God.

1325
01:38:12,487 --> 01:38:14,224
Coming on trips like this distills things down

1326
01:38:14,233 --> 01:38:16,709
to the essence and it recenters you in a certain way.

1327
01:38:17,409 --> 01:38:20,077
Just really awesome to be surrounded by these really motivated

1328
01:38:20,078 --> 01:38:21,037
and strong people.

1329
01:38:25,876 --> 01:38:30,255
Life is tea and coffee in the morning and a little bit of oatmeal and you go climbing.

1330
01:38:42,184 --> 01:38:44,060
That's a big cam there.

1331
01:38:45,061 --> 01:38:46,479
For a big crack!

1332
01:38:46,813 --> 01:38:49,149
This route had a lot of wide climbing

1333
01:38:51,067 --> 01:38:52,235
Nice job, Conrad!

1334
01:38:52,819 --> 01:38:55,530
Nothing but wide cracks and it's just miserable.

1335
01:38:57,741 --> 01:39:00,868
Off-width to chimney to off-width to chimney to off-width

1336
01:39:00,869 --> 01:39:02,913
and it's just brutal.

1337
01:39:09,419 --> 01:39:12,838
Oh, exciting moment: almost getting stuck in this chimney up there.

1338
01:39:12,839 --> 01:39:16,285
I got in there and im like, for a moment there in my mind I'm like,

1339
01:39:16,313 --> 01:39:21,828
"I'm going to be stuck in a chimney in Antarctica and I'm just going to freeze here."

1340
01:39:21,848 --> 01:39:28,020
Everyday Conrad and Jimmy would go out, jug up, do like a pitch or two,

1341
01:39:28,021 --> 01:39:30,856
come back to camp totally worked and thrashed,

1342
01:39:30,857 --> 01:39:33,359
I think Honnold and I were like "What are you guys doing up there?"

1343
01:39:33,360 --> 01:39:35,278
This is what Ulvetanna has done to me.

1344
01:39:36,154 --> 01:39:38,532
Oh, how about this one? Did that happen today?

1345
01:39:39,115 --> 01:39:41,117
Nurse, the cuff isn't warmed up.

1346
01:39:42,285 --> 01:39:44,203
Conrad had a heart attack last year.

1347
01:39:44,204 --> 01:39:49,291
I've been monitoring his blood pressure and his vital signs so I can just keep track of things.

1348
01:39:49,292 --> 01:39:51,086
He's a pillar of health.

1349
01:39:51,545 --> 01:39:52,420
For an old guy.

1350
01:39:53,380 --> 01:39:56,590
He's been on the road to recovery, I was concerned about it.

1351
01:39:56,591 --> 01:40:00,886
But I also trust Conrad's decisions.

1352
01:40:00,887 --> 01:40:06,976
Conrad's been doing first ascents for over 30 years. There's a reason he is still alive.

1353
01:40:06,977 --> 01:40:11,815
He knows how to push the risk right to the edge without going over the edge.

1354
01:40:14,901 --> 01:40:17,946
We're loving life here on Ulvetanna!

1355
01:40:21,644 --> 01:40:21,981
Rock!

1356
01:40:23,994 --> 01:40:26,121
This has got to be somebody's worst nightmare though.

1357
01:40:28,164 --> 01:40:30,499
I guess for Jimmy and I it's a good time to hang out together

1358
01:40:30,500 --> 01:40:34,462
and an anecdote to getting stuck in traffic.

1359
01:40:38,508 --> 01:40:42,261
Cedar and I climb in a very different way than Jimmy and Conrad.

1360
01:40:42,262 --> 01:40:46,015
I think that they're willing to push a little further and push closer to the edge

1361
01:40:46,016 --> 01:40:47,934
than Conrad and I are.

1362
01:40:48,185 --> 01:40:51,729
We just grew up climbing with a more modern speed style

1363
01:40:51,730 --> 01:40:53,522
with tactics that are normal to us.

1364
01:40:53,523 --> 01:40:56,818
But I think to Jimmy and Conrad those represent extreme climbing.

1365
01:40:57,444 --> 01:40:58,569
That pile is all going.

1366
01:40:58,570 --> 01:40:59,570
Hand it to me real quick.

1367
01:40:59,571 --> 01:41:02,032
Well no, you can just pack while I lead. That's kind of the point.

1368
01:41:02,073 --> 01:41:03,742
Fricken hate climbing in sunglasses, I can't see anything.

1369
01:41:05,368 --> 01:41:08,037
Yeah he's possibly the world's most impatient human.

1370
01:41:08,038 --> 01:41:10,956
I'm going to try my very best to take you to the top in one pitch.

1371
01:41:10,957 --> 01:41:12,499
That sounds awful.

1372
01:41:12,500 --> 01:41:14,544
Well if you ever started climbing it would only take half an hour!

1373
01:41:16,630 --> 01:41:17,214
Alright, climbing.

1374
01:41:18,131 --> 01:41:20,283
I think my favorite thing in climbing now

1375
01:41:20,381 --> 01:41:23,407
is going 1,000 feet at a time without having to stop and belay.

1376
01:41:23,678 --> 01:41:24,345
Yeah, Cedar!

1377
01:41:24,346 --> 01:41:26,639
Just climbed 600 feet in thirty minutes.

1378
01:41:26,640 --> 01:41:31,894
By the thousandth foot, with Honnold just blasting and placing like a piece every 75 feet,

1379
01:41:31,895 --> 01:41:33,437
you're starting to get a little winded.

1380
01:41:33,438 --> 01:41:36,107
But there's no stopping, Honnold is just going, and going, and going.

1381
01:41:36,789 --> 01:41:37,664
How was that?

1382
01:41:37,859 --> 01:41:39,318
That was so fun!

1383
01:41:39,319 --> 01:41:40,319
We smoked that thing!

1384
01:41:40,320 --> 01:41:41,362
Yeah!

1385
01:41:41,363 --> 01:41:42,113
Yeah brother!

1386
01:41:43,740 --> 01:41:45,533
Top of the camel!

1387
01:41:45,534 --> 01:41:46,825
Yeah, it was like cardio.

1388
01:41:46,826 --> 01:41:48,452
I told you I was taking us to the top.

1389
01:41:48,453 --> 01:41:51,455
To do a single-pitch, 2,000 foot route?

1390
01:41:51,456 --> 01:41:53,542
Yeah that's next gen, that's next level.

1391
01:41:54,501 --> 01:41:56,502
Alex and I are not skiers.

1392
01:41:56,503 --> 01:41:57,628
I'm a good skier, dude.

1393
01:41:57,629 --> 01:42:00,339
You're fucking not a good skier!

1394
01:42:00,340 --> 01:42:02,508
Jimmy is Alex a good skier?

1395
01:42:02,509 --> 01:42:04,277
He fricken rips!

1396
01:42:04,384 --> 01:42:07,909
For about thirty seconds until he starts to starfish down

1397
01:42:07,924 --> 01:42:10,783
and all his fucking clothes start going like "Phew!"

1398
01:42:10,787 --> 01:42:12,227
I'm so glad I didn't break my rib.

1399
01:42:14,234 --> 01:42:16,690
I fricken hit so hard, I was like "Ohhh."

1400
01:42:18,358 --> 01:42:20,484
Cedar and Alex have a hilarious relationship.

1401
01:42:20,485 --> 01:42:21,735
It's like the Odd Couple.

1402
01:42:21,736 --> 01:42:26,156
I'm pretty sure he is using that axe strictly for ornamentation. Just because it looks cool.

1403
01:42:26,157 --> 01:42:27,950
I'm using it for fear of dying!

1404
01:42:27,951 --> 01:42:30,953
They're both odd, and thus they both get each other.

1405
01:42:30,954 --> 01:42:32,413
How's it going up there, Cedar?

1406
01:42:32,414 --> 01:42:34,765
Oh, you know, living the dream!

1407
01:42:34,776 --> 01:42:36,034
You're looking like a real adventurer.

1408
01:42:36,406 --> 01:42:38,048
It's kind of fucked up.

1409
01:42:38,046 --> 01:42:39,107
I think you're looking great though.

1410
01:42:39,212 --> 01:42:41,914
Selfie video, this is what I do while I belay Cedar.

1411
01:42:41,923 --> 01:42:44,471
Admire the peaks, oh yeah, there's, um...

1412
01:42:44,300 --> 01:42:45,947
It's snowy, I don't like the snow. [Cedar]

1413
01:42:45,719 --> 01:42:48,159
I don't know how you say the name, it's Norwegian...

1414
01:42:48,179 --> 01:42:49,497
Oh! Oh God. [Cedar]

1415
01:42:48,753 --> 01:42:51,724
There's the infinite white abyss...

1416
01:42:51,725 --> 01:42:52,615
That was scary. [Cedar]

1417
01:42:52,934 --> 01:42:55,269
And there you go; selfie video tour complete.

1418
01:42:55,270 --> 01:42:56,228
Alright, watch me here! [Cedar]

1419
01:42:56,354 --> 01:42:57,938
And I can make sure i'm not too sunburnt,

1420
01:42:58,231 --> 01:42:59,690
My lips aren't too chapped.

1421
01:42:59,691 --> 01:43:01,260
Life is good here in Antarctica.

1422
01:43:01,256 --> 01:43:02,803
Okay it looks all steep and scary from here.

1423
01:43:04,539 --> 01:43:06,655
Yeah brother! Woo!

1424
01:43:06,656 --> 01:43:07,980
Yeah nice work!

1425
01:43:08,052 --> 01:43:10,052
Woohoo! Stoked!

1426
01:43:10,493 --> 01:43:13,495
So Cedar and I have basically been blitzing out, doing something as quickly as possible,

1427
01:43:13,496 --> 01:43:17,042
it's all slightly scary, it's all kind of cold, then we'd run back to camp.

1428
01:43:19,012 --> 01:43:19,628
Nice Honnold!

1429
01:43:20,921 --> 01:43:22,087
Oh yeah!

1430
01:43:22,088 --> 01:43:22,880
So fun!

1431
01:43:22,881 --> 01:43:23,923
That was pretty awesome, huh?

1432
01:43:23,924 --> 01:43:25,759
Dude, I think we're like pro skiers now.

1433
01:43:25,884 --> 01:43:29,011
A couple of the missions we've done we've come back into camp completely shell-shocked

1434
01:43:29,012 --> 01:43:32,432
and just been like "Need water, need calories, need hugs!"

1435
01:43:34,559 --> 01:43:35,879
Can I put my toes in your armpits?

1436
01:43:35,886 --> 01:43:36,060
No.

1437
01:43:36,061 --> 01:43:37,520
Ah, alright. Just checking.

1438
01:43:37,521 --> 01:43:38,395
That's a no?

1439
01:43:38,396 --> 01:43:39,093
Yea, that's a hard no.

1440
01:43:40,065 --> 01:43:45,121
Cedar and Alex have been absolutely crushing out here. It's really, really cool to see.

1441
01:43:45,737 --> 01:43:50,700
We are going to go climb that finger thing over there, and I'm going to try and shoot photos.

1442
01:43:55,497 --> 01:43:57,110
Just a little bit, little cold.

1443
01:43:58,667 --> 01:44:03,255
To me, this is one of the most outrageous mountain ranges that I've ever been in.

1444
01:44:05,507 --> 01:44:06,633
We're almost there!

1445
01:44:15,016 --> 01:44:16,600
It's so cold!

1446
01:44:16,601 --> 01:44:17,476
Nice job!

1447
01:44:17,477 --> 01:44:18,770
My mouth is so numb.

1448
01:44:19,855 --> 01:44:22,774
Just from being cold, I feel like I'm talking really slow.

1449
01:44:24,860 --> 01:44:28,112
We had a lot of fun being up there, and that's what I like doing in climbing.

1450
01:44:28,113 --> 01:44:31,709
I like just going out and having fun. I don't like feeling I'm going to die all the time.

1451
01:44:31,716 --> 01:44:35,662
We are going to go climb that thing right there. Holtanna.

1452
01:44:36,496 --> 01:44:41,542
These conditions, climbing bad rock in really, really cold weather,

1453
01:44:41,543 --> 01:44:42,774
I don't know what could happen.

1454
01:44:43,670 --> 01:44:46,923
I don't know, it's fucking cold. Maybe I need to climb with down pants on.

1455
01:44:47,549 --> 01:44:50,217
Got pretty scared up there because the rock is super chossy,

1456
01:44:50,218 --> 01:44:53,846
and it's so remote and so desolate, you want to be extra careful.

1457
01:44:53,847 --> 01:44:56,099
Alright now we just need to not die on the ice going down.

1458
01:44:57,684 --> 01:44:58,560
Look out there, it's sick!

1459
01:45:00,854 --> 01:45:01,854
Will you do me a huge favor?

1460
01:45:01,855 --> 01:45:02,479
Yeah, what do you need?

1461
01:45:02,480 --> 01:45:04,940
Would you grab a spoonful of cold water?

1462
01:45:04,941 --> 01:45:05,316
Yeah,

1463
01:45:05,317 --> 01:45:05,774
Or like a...

1464
01:45:05,775 --> 01:45:06,275
Is it too hot?

1465
01:45:06,276 --> 01:45:07,568
Yeah.

1466
01:45:07,569 --> 01:45:12,782
Nine out of my ten toes are really good, but the tenth toe is really bad.

1467
01:45:14,451 --> 01:45:18,662
It's kind of black with a slight hint of blue.

1468
01:45:18,663 --> 01:45:20,998
I think everybody thought my toe was going to fall off,

1469
01:45:20,999 --> 01:45:25,962
I was going to be the one in Antarctica to get frostbite or maybe I had it, I don't know.

1470
01:45:35,430 --> 01:45:40,601
You know when it's blowing and it's snowing on your tent pretty heavily

1471
01:45:40,602 --> 01:45:42,521
that you get to stay in your sleeping bag.

1472
01:45:43,230 --> 01:45:45,690
Our scene is better than anybody else's.

1473
01:45:51,279 --> 01:45:56,535
It looks ten times as good! Yeah. See, that looks way better.

1474
01:45:58,245 --> 01:46:00,427
Sav is making my pictures look a lot better.

1475
01:46:00,807 --> 01:46:04,083
I was kind of surprised Jimmy was asking me for editing advice.

1476
01:46:04,084 --> 01:46:07,002
You just let me know what I can do to help you out.

1477
01:46:07,003 --> 01:46:08,963
Let's see before and after.

1478
01:46:08,964 --> 01:46:11,132
Holy shit balls!

1479
01:46:11,716 --> 01:46:18,890
Savannah, she has an incredible eye and the potential to go really far with her work.

1480
01:46:19,224 --> 01:46:20,643
It's cool being here with Jimmy.

1481
01:46:20,682 --> 01:46:23,886
I have looked up to him since I became a photographer for a while now

1482
01:46:23,895 --> 01:46:27,273
and I'm just going into it with open eyes of what can I learn.

1483
01:46:27,274 --> 01:46:28,191
It's Spa Day!

1484
01:46:30,986 --> 01:46:34,865
Wow, I was starting to feel like I was basically a piece of fungus, you know what I mean?

1485
01:46:36,700 --> 01:46:37,993
It's so gross!

1486
01:46:38,952 --> 01:46:42,288
So after a couple of weeks, pushing the first ascent as high as they could,

1487
01:46:42,289 --> 01:46:44,373
Conrad and Jimmy had run out of ropes to fix.

1488
01:46:44,374 --> 01:46:45,124
This is your food,

1489
01:46:45,125 --> 01:46:47,209
Our food, fuel.

1490
01:46:47,210 --> 01:46:50,839
It was time for them to cut the cord and commit to the wall.

1491
01:46:51,256 --> 01:46:52,966
And they're going to be up there for four or five days.

1492
01:46:54,384 --> 01:46:56,969
Yeah it'll be an incredible view from up there,

1493
01:46:56,970 --> 01:46:59,806
hopefully, fingers crossed, we stay warm.

1494
01:47:06,730 --> 01:47:09,815
Ah, fuck. That was big.

1495
01:47:09,816 --> 01:47:14,779
Made the ridge. This spot is insane! Look at where we are.

1496
01:47:15,906 --> 01:47:18,658
I just love pushing out into the unknown.

1497
01:47:21,077 --> 01:47:22,287
Ah, yeah!

1498
01:47:22,744 --> 01:47:24,206
It's good to be out here!

1499
01:47:24,219 --> 01:47:25,420
Woo!

1500
01:47:27,610 --> 01:47:33,048
It's a long day on half of an energy bar and four sips of water.

1501
01:47:33,757 --> 01:47:35,716
You know who I'm glad I'm not right now is Jimmy and Conrad

1502
01:47:35,717 --> 01:47:38,720
because they're up there and it is snowing and not that good.

1503
01:47:45,185 --> 01:47:46,478
Good job, proud, man!

1504
01:47:48,438 --> 01:47:50,065
This is insane!

1505
01:47:54,152 --> 01:47:58,155
I think the big thing about Jimmy and Conrad is that they're both really tough.

1506
01:47:58,156 --> 01:48:00,908
And we got to go up there.

1507
01:48:00,909 --> 01:48:02,409
Looking gnarly today.

1508
01:48:02,410 --> 01:48:05,618
There'd be days I got chilled and I'd be cold and I'd be like "Jimmy, you're up."

1509
01:48:07,541 --> 01:48:09,625
Oh, rock, rock, rock!

1510
01:48:09,626 --> 01:48:10,626
You okay?

1511
01:48:10,627 --> 01:48:13,003
And then he'd get tired and I'd pick up the slack.

1512
01:48:13,004 --> 01:48:17,926
And that's what partnership is all about. Sharing the workload and then sharing the joy.

1513
01:48:18,468 --> 01:48:22,556
Hopefully the weather is going to break and we'll get some sun one day.

1514
01:48:23,306 --> 01:48:25,850
I think Jimmy and Conrad are probably pretty chilly,

1515
01:48:25,851 --> 01:48:27,996
but either way you kind of only have one direction to go

1516
01:48:27,995 --> 01:48:29,521
so it doesn’t really matter if it's snowing or not

1517
01:48:29,521 --> 01:48:30,437
you just go up.

1518
01:48:30,438 --> 01:48:33,152
Look at that tower still up there.

1519
01:48:33,154 --> 01:48:33,620
Woo!

1520
01:48:34,243 --> 01:48:34,950
Wooo!

1521
01:48:35,110 --> 01:48:38,154
Yeah, Raddish, how was that?

1522
01:48:43,827 --> 01:48:48,122
That's what twelve summits does to you.

1523
01:48:48,123 --> 01:48:50,250
It makes your hands look like a 95-year-old man's.

1524
01:48:50,709 --> 01:48:53,210
Hey Cedar, how much are you going to be carrying gear-wise and stuff?

1525
01:48:53,211 --> 01:48:54,295
What's that?

1526
01:48:54,296 --> 01:48:56,672
I think we both feel like we've just been rolling the dice, rolling the dice,

1527
01:48:56,673 --> 01:48:58,550
and it's how much more of this can we take?

1528
01:49:00,056 --> 01:49:04,180
There's only one summit left for us to have sent every major formation in this valley.

1529
01:49:04,181 --> 01:49:07,726
And of course it's the most burley looking one.

1530
01:49:08,149 --> 01:49:12,521
A guiding principle with my climbing is just to do the hard thing.

1531
01:49:12,522 --> 01:49:17,359
Even if I don't want to, I'll just do the thing that I feel like I'm supposed to do.

1532
01:49:17,360 --> 01:49:20,238
So we're going for it. Stetind, the last summit in Antarctica.

1533
01:49:22,032 --> 01:49:23,033
Alright, go ahead, Honnold.

1534
01:49:24,944 --> 01:49:25,754
Hey, Cedar?

1535
01:49:25,881 --> 01:49:26,619
What's up?

1536
01:49:26,620 --> 01:49:29,371
Can you simul up to that first ledge?

1537
01:49:29,372 --> 01:49:30,372
Okay!

1538
01:49:30,373 --> 01:49:32,082
The rope drag is really bad.

1539
01:49:32,394 --> 01:49:33,057
What?

1540
01:49:33,251 --> 01:49:36,338
Yeah, it's really cold and hard to protect.

1541
01:49:42,219 --> 01:49:44,511
Honnold's on a vision quest up there,

1542
01:49:44,512 --> 01:49:47,640
going really slow. It's really scary face climbing.

1543
01:49:47,641 --> 01:49:49,351
And I am so cold.

1544
01:49:51,228 --> 01:49:52,896
It's hard to put into words how friggen cold I am.

1545
01:49:53,730 --> 01:49:55,981
How's it look up there?

1546
01:49:55,982 --> 01:49:57,107
I don't know!

1547
01:49:57,108 --> 01:49:58,610
It's really rotten.

1548
01:50:01,279 --> 01:50:02,989
Just, I'm really scared. Give me a minute.

1549
01:50:04,824 --> 01:50:08,118
My fingers and toes are totally numb, Cedar was totally numb, we're both shaking,

1550
01:50:08,119 --> 01:50:11,288
and we were like "Oh no, we need to find a way to the top as fast as possible

1551
01:50:11,289 --> 01:50:12,666
because it's all coming apart."

1552
01:50:14,918 --> 01:50:17,211
Climbing with Honnold, I've seen him nervous,

1553
01:50:17,212 --> 01:50:18,838
but this the first time I've seen him scared.

1554
01:50:19,506 --> 01:50:22,091
Yeah, I'm like 20 feet or 30 feet away.

1555
01:50:22,092 --> 01:50:25,971
I'm just gripped out of my dome and cold.

1556
01:50:26,846 --> 01:50:28,931
I could hear the fear in Honnold's voice,

1557
01:50:28,932 --> 01:50:31,142
he was looking at 150 foot fall.

1558
01:50:31,977 --> 01:50:32,602
Complete horror show.

1559
01:50:32,936 --> 01:50:35,229
Cedar, I think this is going to work.

1560
01:50:35,230 --> 01:50:36,982
Try to gain on me a bit.

1561
01:50:37,357 --> 01:50:39,985
Ah, sun! Sun, sun sun!

1562
01:50:40,819 --> 01:50:43,488
This is so next level. This is crazy!

1563
01:50:45,115 --> 01:50:46,449
I'm off belay!

1564
01:50:52,289 --> 01:50:53,290
Goddamn.

1565
01:50:53,832 --> 01:50:58,002
It's maybe the most messed up route, maybe of my life.

1566
01:50:58,003 --> 01:50:59,670
Definitely one of the scariest leads of my life.

1567
01:50:59,671 --> 01:51:01,797
Your hands are so bloody!

1568
01:51:01,798 --> 01:51:04,300
You look like a disaster.

1569
01:51:04,301 --> 01:51:05,218
Yeah, they don't look good.

1570
01:51:06,636 --> 01:51:09,430
Oh, I thought I was going to have to take an emergency dump on lead.

1571
01:51:09,431 --> 01:51:11,558
I was just in full panic, like "Oh, God!"

1572
01:51:19,608 --> 01:51:21,067
You freaking kidding me?

1573
01:51:23,361 --> 01:51:25,071
How would you rate this campsite?

1574
01:51:25,322 --> 01:51:29,075
Oh, 10 out of 10. Best in my whole life.

1575
01:51:30,827 --> 01:51:32,412
You want to listen to a Neil Young album?

1576
01:51:36,041 --> 01:51:41,101
When you're young you're climbing fast, you're taking risks, it's all about you.

1577
01:51:41,282 --> 01:51:42,494
I can clip the shovel.

1578
01:51:42,927 --> 01:51:43,573
Yeah we'll clip it.

1579
01:51:43,683 --> 01:51:44,225
I'll clip it.

1580
01:51:45,425 --> 01:51:48,637
I think for Jimmy and I, our motivations have changed.

1581
01:51:49,763 --> 01:51:53,517
We really just wanted to enjoy the climb, just try to be in the moment.

1582
01:51:57,145 --> 01:51:58,480
Totally surreal.

1583
01:52:04,528 --> 01:52:06,696
We're old but we sure are slow!

1584
01:52:09,074 --> 01:52:10,325
Thank God it doesn't get dark.

1585
01:52:13,662 --> 01:52:17,289
Climbing is... it's the craziest thing in the world.

1586
01:52:17,290 --> 01:52:20,715
I couldn't live without it, I wake up in the morning and I want to go climbing.

1587
01:52:20,719 --> 01:52:23,317
But it's been, also, the most fucked up thing.

1588
01:52:23,323 --> 01:52:28,194
I've lost friends and it's been the most despondent, despairing low points of my life.

1589
01:52:30,011 --> 01:52:33,223
Conrad's up there, battling.

1590
01:52:34,933 --> 01:52:37,519
Oh, yeah.

1591
01:52:39,896 --> 01:52:41,146
People ask me "When are you going to quit?"

1592
01:52:41,147 --> 01:52:44,985
But I have no plans to quit. Why quit?

1593
01:52:47,904 --> 01:52:49,405
Yeah, Jimmy!

1594
01:52:49,406 --> 01:52:51,199
That's the South Pole out there.

1595
01:52:53,076 --> 01:52:57,411
Climbing is my life and I will continue to do it as long as I have friends to share it with.

1596
01:52:57,608 --> 01:52:59,373
How cold is it, Conrad?

1597
01:52:59,374 --> 01:53:00,417
-3.

1598
01:53:02,919 --> 01:53:05,505
And as long as my body allows me to do it.

1599
01:53:06,089 --> 01:53:10,509
So I can see Conrad and Jimmy, they are way the heck up there,

1600
01:53:10,510 --> 01:53:13,179
looks to me like they are going to make the summit.

1601
01:53:13,638 --> 01:53:15,056
Almost there, Conrad!

1602
01:53:15,432 --> 01:53:18,518
Yeah, buddy, there it is!

1603
01:53:27,068 --> 01:53:28,987
Yeah, Jimmy! Love you, man.

1604
01:53:38,761 --> 01:53:40,331
This is amazing.

1605
01:53:43,972 --> 01:53:47,308
What would you say was the most valuable factor on an expedition?

1606
01:53:47,807 --> 01:53:54,020
Is it morale, or physical courage?

1607
01:53:54,616 --> 01:53:56,076
Or is it your equipment?

1608
01:53:57,387 --> 01:54:01,892
Well I've always thought that loyalty was by far the most important thing.

1609
01:54:08,350 --> 01:54:10,644
You lived, dude! Congratulations, man!

1610
01:54:10,934 --> 01:54:11,684
Thank you!

1611
01:54:12,815 --> 01:54:13,523
Was it epic?

1612
01:54:14,223 --> 01:54:18,978
It was, I mean, it felt annoying because of the cold.

1613
01:54:27,885 --> 01:54:32,139
Oh my God! Tortellini! Are you kidding me?

1614
01:54:33,176 --> 01:54:37,596
The most extreme moment in the entire Antarctica expedition,

1615
01:54:37,597 --> 01:54:40,266
Savannah Cummins...

1616
01:54:40,267 --> 01:54:40,976
dropping in!

1617
01:54:42,185 --> 01:54:43,436
And she's off, ladies and gentlemen.

1618
01:54:48,233 --> 01:54:49,860
Hey, careful with the baby!

1619
01:54:50,235 --> 01:54:51,736
He's just a little baby!

1620
01:54:52,737 --> 01:54:56,407
I feel so fortunate to come here and not just climb but climb a lot.

1621
01:54:56,408 --> 01:55:00,328
In fact as a team I think we climbed pretty much everything.

1622
01:55:01,305 --> 01:56:01,219
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